Best wadding boot studs????

gidva

Well-known member
Messages
318
Reaction score
0
Location
Maryland
I purchased a pair of Simms Headwaters I want to add some studds on the boots. I have another pair with alumibites and the have wear out and now they are more slippery than regular rubber. What are your recommendations??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

Ard

Administrator
Messages
19,614
Reaction score
732
Location
Wasilla / Skwentna, Alaska
Were they suitable prior to wearing out? I ask because they are what I use, I have used many type studs, from the kind that are integrated into the boot and many others. I've used Grip Studs, Cold Cutters, Simms Hard Bite screw type, Simms Hard Bite Star Cleats, and regular hardware store Screw types. The regular Simms Aluminum star cleats are pretty good until you wear them down. When that happens unfortunately we gotta pony up and get new ones.

All of those stud types I mentioned eventually wore down and had to be replaced.
 

fredaevans

Well-known member
Messages
11,302
Reaction score
105
Location
White City (tad north of Medford) Oar-E-Gone
Hit a 'big box' store, get Allieumminielum sheet metal screws,'5 cents' each?. You may have to drill a small (tiny) pilot hole, put them in with a screw driver/wratchet wrench. A drop of 'Gorilla Glue' on the threads is highly recommended.

The soft Allie material will grab like heck but if you do a lot of walking not long life. BFD! At a less than a dollar per boot do you care? Been doing the above for years; far better than the 'studs.'

fae
 

silver creek

Well-known member
Messages
7,103
Reaction score
434
Location
Rothschld, Wisconsin
I have a lifetime supply of the Weinbrenner Borger Ultimate wading boot with studs so I have not used the Kold Cutters myself. I was boot tester for Weinbrenner when Jim Greenlee owned the company and he made sure I would never wear any other boot.

The Weinbrenner studs are carbide and I have never worn out the studs before the boot soles. I've posted these photos before but for those who are planning to stud their boots here is what I learned from being a boot tester.

Most wading boots have a one piece felt sole like on this pair of Patagonias. Note the one piece felt glued but not sewn felt sole.



If you buy a one piece felt boot, make sure the sole is both glued and sewn like the Orvis boot below. It has a sewn sole but the stud pattern is wrong with a carbide stud directly under the ball of the foot.



If you have a higher quality boot like this Weinbrenner Borger Boot that has a "stacked" heel made of separate stacked, glued and sewn pieces of felt, the corner of the heel forms an edge that "grabs" onto the surface of a rounded rock and gives you a stable hold on the top of the rock.

Also note that the felt of the Borger boot is not only glued to the welt but sewn to the welt.



When I tested wading boots for Weinbrenner and they were thinking of importing cheaper boots with one piece soles, and I fell wearing those boots on rounded rocks. I dinged up my new Ross Evo reel as well. I told them the boots were junk.

The boots even had studs but the stud pattern was wrong and they projected way too far out of the felt. The stud pattern must allow both felt and studs to contact the ground/rocks at all time. That way, when you are on a rock, you are not on just the tips of the studs.

As a boot tester I learned the hard way that the stud type and location is very important. Weinbrenner uses carbide studs because they are extremely hard. With carbide studs it is important for the stud pattern allow both felt and studs to contact the ground/rocks at all times. That way, when you are on a rock, you are not on just the tips of the studs. We also learned that with carbide studs, the studs cannot project out further than the felt for the same reason.

The bottom of the Borger boot shows that the area under the ball of the boot has no stud but as you rock your foot forward, the studs begin to grab. Also notice that on the side view of the boot above, you cannot even see the studs because only the tips project from the boot. As you step on the felt, the felt compresses and the tips of the studs contact the rock and river bottom.



I was a tester for the the prototypes of the Propex (ballistic nylon) boots above. I still have them and they are going on 20 years although the need new studs and soles. The boots are solid and have not blown out the sides or the toes.

The stud pattern is less critical if you use a soft metal like aluminum. Aluminum "grabs" onto rocks as owners of aluminum boats know. So they provide grip by conforming and leaving bits of aluminum on the rocks. This means aluminum, while a great metal for studs will need replacement.
 

nevadanstig

Well-known member
Messages
2,094
Reaction score
25
Location
Reno, NV
I use the kold kutters and have liked them. I prefer a drop of aquaseal over other types of glue when installing them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
S

smcnearn

Guest
I find that hypalon from rafts is insanely sticky and that vibram soles are slick as heck.

I think they should swap materials!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Ard

Administrator
Messages
19,614
Reaction score
732
Location
Wasilla / Skwentna, Alaska
Silver, have you used those yourself? If so, what are your impressions of their traction?
Hi Jeff,

I used them, and I have a lifetime supply :) They bite well but if you walk on a lot of cobble like I do on some rivers and creeks they will wear down like everything else.

Here's something seldom mentioned, when you choose studs be careful that they are not too high profile. I've found that there are 2 negative aspects of using something that may protrude almost 3/16" or more beyond the sole of your boot.

Negative #1: If you put more than ten on each boot sole they can actually become tricky when you are on large flat rocks. Even though the steel or whatever material you use is hard and will bite, they can and will slide if there are a bunch on the boot. Sometimes less is more or at least that's been my experience.

Negative #2: Studs that stick out of the Vibram sole can and will get scuffed enough that they will tear out, i.e. you lose some studs. This results in the area where you had them being rendered useless for adapting another screw in that spot. You can actually run out of good areas to apply studs if you allow yourself to get thinking that one that protrudes a little higher in profile will be better.

Anyway, that's what I think I know about that ;)
 

gidva

Well-known member
Messages
318
Reaction score
0
Location
Maryland
I purchased a pair of Simms Headwaters I want to add some studds on the boots. I have another pair with alumibites and the have wear out and now they are more slippery than regular rubber. What are your recommendations??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
https://www.highlandanglers.com/

---------- Post added at 09:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 PM ----------

Thank you so much. I wonder if I should go for the cold kutter.

---------- Post added at 09:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:09 PM ----------

Just got a bag of cold kutters 250 for 25 bucks not bad at all!
 

Bent Undergrowth

Well-known member
Messages
233
Reaction score
91
Location
Great Lakes
For those using Kold Kutter and other studs requiring an adhesive, loctite or otherwise... do you have issues removing them when they wear out?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

motts

New member
Messages
4
Reaction score
3
Location
New Jersey
For those using Kold Kutter and other studs requiring an adhesive, loctite or otherwise... do you have issues removing them when they wear out?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
A dab of whatever you choose to use shouldn't cause any removal issues. If you use the kold kutters, an impact gun with the proper size bit should pretty easily overcome the adhesive if they're too difficult to remove by hand.
 

quattro

Well-known member
Messages
120
Reaction score
19
I really like the aluminum Simms cleats in on my g3s
Rock treds are also pretty bomber.
 
Top