Best Way to Mount Oars to Jon Boat?

unicoiboy

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I am in the process of turning my boat into a power-drifter type concoction. It will mainly be used for slow water floats for bass, musky, and perhaps a trout or two. I've got oars, locks, and even some UHMW oar blocks from the guy I purchased my oars from. Seeing as I have never put oars on a jon, I have no idea what to do as far as oar placement (height, distance from bow/stern, and distance from rowers seat). I also don't know what type of mounting system to use. I was planning on having a flat piece of aluminum welded to the top of the gunwales with holes in in, and then through-bolting the oar block to this, but I would love some opinions or other options.

My boat is a 1448 Welded Mod V, I have 9ft cataraft oars, and my rowers seat is a yeti cooler. With this setup I do have the ability to move the rowers seat foreward and backwards to get the perfect position as well as add pads or lifters to change the seat height, but I am honestly not sure what the "perfect" position is. Is there any way to try the oars in different positions without doing anything permanent? Thanks for any help anyone may provide.
 

tcorfey

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If you google "Mounting Oar Locks" you will get lots of info from boat builders. When I have done this in the past I used some scrap lumber to mount my oarlocks on and then c-clamped the lumber to the boat until I found a good position to row from (put the boat in the water to try it). Then I permanently mounted the oar locks when I found the best position. Depending on gunwale height to seat height you may need to move them vertically as well as horizontally. Nothing worse than having your oars hit your legs on the return stroke because you can't get the blades out of the water.

Regards,

Tim c.
 

Jeff Dodd

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@unicoiboy
I am resurrecting this thread, as I am planning now to mount oar locks to my 1546 MV Jon.

Wondering if you completed the project and how you decided on the mounting location on the gunnel?

I will also be sitting on a Yeti, so curious about the height of your oar locks.

thanks in advance
Jeff
 
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Ard

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I did a thread years ago when I put them into my boat but have no idea wh
@unicoiboy
I am resurrecting this thread, as I am planning now to mount oar locks to my 1546 MV Jon.

Wondering if you completed the project and how you decided on the mounting location on the gunnel?

I will also be sitting on a Yeti, so curious about the height of your oar locks.

thanks in advance
Jeff
This thread is about putting the oars in my boat.

Scroll down and you'll see how the UHMP blocks were mounted. I used brass cap nuts on the inside to avoid anything that could cut or tear anything. You are pretty much on your own at figuring out how to make things work out so that the oars work comfortably and efficiently for you. I have a dry storage bin in the bow area where I sit to work the oars where you will be on a cooler so that makes some differences.

I have found that in my case having the rower all the way forward is the ticket because I have a 90 hp Honda jet on the transom. With me sitting on the bow and the flotation pods on the rear end the boat is perfectly balanced and drafts about 3 inches drifting.

Just be really sure of things before you start drilling holes. If you look at the pictures I included down the thread you will see that my hull has what is called a 'rolled or bull nosed' gunnel top meaning the oar will be low and give you clearance issues. I solved that with a 3/4" brass collet with set screws in them. They act as bushings under the oar locks. Adding oars to a boat that wasn't designed with them in mind is a matter of making things work and problem solving.
 

Jeff Dodd

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I did a thread years ago when I put them into my boat but have no idea wh


This thread is about putting the oars in my boat.

Scroll down and you'll see how the UHMP blocks were mounted. I used brass cap nuts on the inside to avoid anything that could cut or tear anything. You are pretty much on your own at figuring out how to make things work out so that the oars work comfortably and efficiently for you. I have a dry storage bin in the bow area where I sit to work the oars where you will be on a cooler so that makes some differences.

I have found that in my case having the rower all the way forward is the ticket because I have a 90 hp Honda jet on the transom. With me sitting on the bow and the flotation pods on the rear end the boat is perfectly balanced and drafts about 3 inches drifting.

Just be really sure of things before you start drilling holes. If you look at the pictures I included down the thread you will see that my hull has what is called a 'rolled or bull nosed' gunnel top meaning the oar will be low and give you clearance issues. I solved that with a 3/4" brass collet with set screws in them. They act as bushings under the oar locks.
Thanks Ard. I will look more closely on the computer but this will help me.
I like your boat and set up. I am kinda doing the same but primary used for big Stillwaters and searun cutthroat in Puget Sound as I sneak around the shallow bays.

here is the boat I’m working with. I’ve ordered the new 25 Yamaha to repoweE66ED113-50F8-41A8-B934-BCC40C310E0B.png
 
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Ard

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So is that a bow storage hatch I see?

Depth of field makes it hard to tell distance between the hatch and transom but.............. I'd consider using the box area as my rowing seat and tilting the motor full up while drifting stern first downstream. Your weight on the front hatch should act as counterbalance much like mine does here.

By the look of the gunnel top you may have to use an additional piece of UHMP as a shim behind the block that came with your ores. It looks like you may want the blocks a bit farther from the side board. Height may be an issue as well, I will take a picture of the collets I used as 'risers' under my oarlocks and post it. If you want one sent via cell phone image just send your number to me in a private message here and I'll send to your phone. That way you can carry an image to show at hardware stores to stop you wasting time searching for them.
 

Ard

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Here are those collars,

Oar Locks14313.JPG

Oar Locks14314.JPG

They have an Allen Key set screw that will attach them to the shaft of the oar lock itself.

Oar Locks14315.JPG

I had to find them because without the additional height the brass oar lock struck the rolled lip of the gunnel.

Oar Locks14316.JPG

The last image shows how the block fits tight to the underside of that rolled lip.

it looks as if you may run into an issue where your blocks may fit too far under your top lip that's why I mentioned UHMP pieces to act as shims to get the oar blocks away from the hull farther.
 

Ard

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Could you tell me what the distance from that hatch to the transom is? That would help me to understand what you have to work with.

Also, have you bought the oars and what length are they?
 

Jeff Dodd

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Ard
Thank you for the great help and details. I’m headed out for a bit and I’ll send a PM and make that measurement tonight or tomorrow. Sorry for the delay!

I’ve not purchased oars yet, as I wanted to get an idea where on the gunnel they will be used and the seat height of the cooler I ordered.

appreciate the help!
 

Jeff Dodd

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OK,

Be wary of sitting too high, talking would answer lots of questions quickly unless you are near a good boat shop that could help.
Will you please initiate a PM with me so we can exchange cell numbers? I do not find anywhere to PM you. Maybe my post count is too low?
Thanks
 

Jeff Dodd

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@Ard
A board member on this forum contacted me and gave me a set of Sawyer oar locks! Thanks Mark!

I found a used set of Sawyer MXS oars (blue) that I will use, if the correct oar length.

It’s 110” from the transom to the seat post in front of the storage hatch in the bow.

my outboard is only 126lbs.

If these oars work, I think I will buy the shoal cut blades.

972CBAA3-849D-49B1-8908-7ED447F1828A.png
 
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