Color Preservative ?

Ard

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This may be helpful to some. I posted this to a thread wherein the builder expressed some level of surprise and disappointment that his finished rod wraps didn't turn out as he had hoped.

It has been a long time since I applied silks to a rod but somethings never change. A good step to take when preparing to dress threads to rods is to have a piece of similarly colored dowel rod to test the wraps on. If the blanks are dark colored you can just paint the dowel rod so that it is close to the color of the blank in use.

Once you have your test piece you simply wrap it with the various threads intended for the build then apply the material you intend to finish them with. You will see at this point whether or not you will need to use a 'color preserver' treatment on the threads prior to doing the actual rod.

Does that make sense?
 

ravenbc

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Another option instead of wrapping on a dowel is to do a practice wrap on the butt of the blank where the reel seat or grip will cover. This way you will be an exact result. Once you have a desired result, just strip your practice wrap and any damage will be covered by grip etc.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

dennyk

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Jangles , I'm not familiar with Pro-Wrap thread, have you ever considered the No Color Preservative (NCP) type threads?

Denny
 

reels

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Not an expert here, but I've seen a few seasoned builders recommend to not use CP on wraps.
They claim it impacts the adhesion between the guide, final epoxy, wraps and blank; something you won't notice until you have to repair/replace that wrap.
For that reason, I personally don't use it.

That said, if you want to use a CP it would seem the PROSEAL CP may be a choice; isn't it made by the same manufacture as PROWRAP?
If in doubt, I'd just email or call PROPRODUCTS and see what they say.
 

Maker 85541

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I make bamboo fly rods and use silk thread exclusively for wraps. It depends on the look I'm going after as to how I preserve the wraps. I typically make test wraps in the area that will eventually be covered by the grip or reel seat on the bamboo blank. When going for a traditional transparent look no CP is used. The color of the silk can change drastically once the wraps are epoxied and rod is dipped in varnish. If your after a specific look then testing wrap color is a must in order to see the final color when not using CP. If on the other hand your looking for the true opaque color of the silk thread to remain then a CP is required. I've tested a few CP's and what I've settled on is Aero Gloss Clear. It is the only thing I've found that keeps the silk color close to true. I use 3-4 coats at a 50/50 mix of thinner and Aero Gloss and then another 3-4 coats of 100% Aero Gloss. This is followed by 2-3 coats of epoxy. These are all "THIN" coats. After drying tips get 2 dips and butts get 3 dips in the varnish dip tubes. This has worked well for me with zero guide issues.
Mike
 
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Sirgrumps

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Jangles , I'm not familiar with Pro-Wrap thread, have you ever considered the No Color Preservative (NCP) type threads?

Denny
Those threads help, but the color still changes.

ironically, two rods I built as gifts from a buddy and his wife, one needed a section replaced.
fortunately, I still had the original spools of thread.
i sent to my buddy, who replaced the guides. They were NCP thread, he didn’t use color preserver. I guess i did, as the threads didn’t match.
 

bonefish41

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J...I use mud hole's CP...when I use straight nylon and do not want the bleed through look of no CP on untreated nylon. Your tiger thread that's a variegated style thus CP?? I've never had any adhesion issues with thread failure using CP and the various two part finishes on fly rods; however, on bluewater conventional, either NCP or regular nylon, I do not use CP because of significantly greater drag/flex pressures on the blank/guides...
 

Bambooflyguy

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Old thread but I ran out of vintage Gudebrod CP, and used one coat of Threadmaster One watered down on some vintage variegated green/black nylon thread. I finished the wraps with one thin coat Threadmaster of high build. This rod is a combo of bamboo and fiberglass, the color stayed the same on both, happy with the results.
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snakesurf

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I just use the Flex Coat one, if I use any at all. It is the easiest to find, at least for me. On fly rods, I typically do not use it, but I do not believe it will weaken the adhesion to the blank. I have pulled guides off blanks with it and without and there is no noticeable difference. If you applied CP and get spots in the wrap it is because some type of oil or solvent got on the wraps prior to the epoxy and the CP was not able to penetrate the thread in that area. Solvents and oil will mix with the epoxy resin but not the water based Color Protector.
 
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