How well does color last on gsp thread?

webblade

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I have ordered some white Veevus gsp in 30 50 and 100 denier. I see people online saying it takes color from a sharpie pretty well and I'm wondering how long the color lasts though, with and without head cement/super glue? Anyone have flies they have fished noticed how good/bad the color has lasted?
 

mtboiler

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I use a lot of Veevus and leave them on top of my fly tying desk, which has a halogen light right above it...never noticed any thread color change even if I leave them out for a month or two. Never tied with white though.
 

webblade

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I use a lot of Veevus and leave them on top of my fly tying desk, which has a halogen light right above it...never noticed any thread color change even if I leave them out for a month or two. Never tied with white though.
Sorry if I didn't convey properly but I'm talking about white colored with sharpie specifically and after being in the water.
 

bigjim5589

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I don't use the gsp threads, but never found that color from permanent makers lasted a long time on anything that I've used them on unless over coated with something, like epoxy that doesn't react with the color. Head cements are OK too, but the solvents will react with the color so I've had to dab them on rather than brush it on. I don't know about the water based head cements. On threads, I've used Sharpies & other brands and, then had to be coated or they would fade quickly. That may not be a big issue for everyone, and certainly the color can be touched up.
 

bigjim5589

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I used to tie a lot of Tarpon flies for guides, and used white thread, and fluorescent paints or nail polish to color the heads. I've used Sharpies too, and epoxy coated over the color. The epoxy was used for durability, but other coatings work well on other types of flies.
 

webblade

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I used to tie a lot of Tarpon flies for guides, and used white thread, and fluorescent paints or nail polish to color the heads. I've used Sharpies too, and epoxy coated over the color. The epoxy was used for durability, but other coatings work well on other types of flies.
Thanks. Just looking at multipacks of varnish on amazon. Does it have to be Sally Hanson or will other varnish be okay?
 

trev

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Clear coat is what I meant. And I personally think Sally Hansen is poor head cement, at least what I have is. I like regular lacquer from the paint store (traditional head cement stuff in small jars is the same) or the cheap clear finger nail lacquers from a drug store or Dollar Tree. imo, the SHHAN is entirely too thick.
edit; I like my lacquer to be water thin and penetrate the wraps rather than just coat over them. For an over coat the UV resins might be clear enough.
 
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webblade

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Clear coat is what I meant. And I personally think Sally Hansen is poor head cement, at least what I have is. I like regular lacquer from the paint store (traditional head cement stuff in small jars is the same) or the cheap clear finger nail lacquers from a drug store or Dollar Tree. imo, the SHHAN is entirely too thick.
edit; I like my lacquer to be water thin and penetrate the wraps rather than just coat over them. For an over coat the UV resins might be clear enough.
Yeah i always found Sally hansen a bit too thick too and when I thin it with acetone it turns white. Wood furniture lacquer? Whats the name of the stuff you use?
 

trev

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Last few years I've been using Dollar Tree nail lacquer, if acetone is listed in the ingredients of a nail polish it should not turn milky when acetone is added, however most modern nail polish is not based on acetone but other chemicals. Acetone is more of a nail polish remover and a better thinner for most nail polish would based on Ethyl Alcohol, Ethyl Acetate, Butyl Acetate rather than Acetone.
Sally Hansen is "Ethyl Acetate, N-butyl Acetate & Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Nitrocellulose. Nail polish is a nitrocellulose lacquer. " So it contains no acetone and acetone isn't going to mix well with it.
Beauty Secrets Nail Polish Thinner (or similar) would be the stuff to use thinning SH. It is Butyl Acetate, Ethyl Acetate, and Heptane.

ed; I just found this https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/...uestion-about-head-cement.704815/post-1293827
and this https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/thickened-head-cement.368253/post-806870
 
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bigjim5589

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SH is a popular brand, but any cheap nail polish can be used for a coating. SH produces several versions and some are not great for tying. Some nail polishes also have other ingredients which are not good for tying. I had some react with the wax in thread, I think, and wouldn't set up and get hard. I ended up retying them and discarding the polish.

I've used various hardware coatings including urethane & polyurethane. I've used spar varnish too. These can work, but drying times vary and may not dry clear, or may react with whatever is used to color the thread. Some are even using super glues for "head cement". I've tried that too, and because some it can be very thin, care needs to be taken to keep it from wicking up into materials. There is also gel types. These would be used prior to adding the color, and still a final coat would be needed if a gloss coat was desired or to keep the color from fading.

I think I may even have a few jars of the old celluloid type head cements in a couple of colors.

IMO, much of this is personal preference. The flies won't last forever, regardless of what is used on the thread. There's a limited life to them. SH and epoxy are what I use to aid in protecting the thread and making the fly look good, but I also mostly tie with threads of the appropriate color so it's not critical either way what I use.
 

webblade

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Thanks guys. I have done an experiment with the sharpies. I've wrapped white thread around a few hooks and coloured the thread with various sharpie colours. I have coated some with varnish, some with uv glue and left some with no coat. Dropped them into a glass of water and left the on the window sill in for the sun to get at them. Every so often I give the glass a good shake to try agitate the water like currents. I will leave them there for a week and see what the results are. Surely all that time of being continuously in the water will be a good reflection of how they will last. Will report back the results.
 

dillon

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I like tying with white veevus thread on some flies. When I’m done building the body of the fly I snip it off after making a couple half hitches. Then I build the head with a colored thread of choice. It probably takes less time than using a sharpie and I have every color of thread under the sun, but usually use black.
 

webblade

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Been using white gsp the past few days and love it. A quick rub with a sharpie for the colour head I want and cover with head cement. Very good for dubbing loop too which I use frequently. Use a Stanley blade to cut the thread. Don’t find it too slippy on materials as has been said. So far very happy and haven't found any down sides yet.
 

hubby11

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I use white veevus GSP thread more than anything else as the majority of it gets covered by materials to make the fly. I have a bunch of sharpies to either blend the final wraps or to make a hot spot (red, florescent orange, chartreuse). I've not seen any fading during fishing the flies, but like already alluded to, I will likely lose a fly way before any noticeable loss in color.
 
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