Knot integrity issues

Brodfish

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Pictured you'll see the stripped outer coating on a rio floating line above the tightened coils of a new knot iv been trying. While this particular knot secures the line tightly and with relative ease, I find it difficult to avoid stripping the outer coating slightly above the knot. Should this be cause for concern?

In the spirit of eliminating factory loops, my concern now is with a possibly more compromised connection that may have a shorter shelf life than with most factory loops.

Thank's for reading...
 

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silver creek

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I doubt the line would break. The only issue would be some water seeping into the core of the line.

Personally, I would retie the knot. BUT if you do this too often, you will start tieing into the tapered section of the line. Fy lines have a 4 to 6 inch level section at the tip for attachment to the leader.

Have you tried the nailless nail knot? Coat with UV resin to smooth the knot surface.


 

Brodfish

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I have and once I cinched down the knots similar gouging occured so iv been messing with different knots to try eliminating that. Best thus far as been the Albright, but I'm not a fan of how the knot clears guides, though it may just be the way I tie it.
 

flav

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I would think tying a knot in the fly line would be really bad for the coating, and you're going to get cracking in the coating no matter what you do.

That knot looks like it would get caught in every guide as it goes in and out, way worse than any loop to loop connection. I've had loop to loop connections last over a decade of hard use and outlast the fly line, this seems like a solution to a problem that really isn't there and actually makes things worse.
 

Brodfish

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Loops certainly are sufficient, I'm not an anti-looper by any stretch, I guess it's more a personal thing, I really want a few line to leader knots I can tie well and have confidence in their longevity...which thus far i'v yet to achieve.
 

Brodfish

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Silver, thank's for the vid that's super simple....will be trying that.

50lb butt section on the leader might call for some precision on my part....and a healthy challenge for the fingers
 

Acheron

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I have had this happen when using a nail knot and stringing/restringing my rod a lot. What I was doing was bending the fly line and leader right at the nail knot in order to make a "V" shape which easily passed through the eyelets as I strung up the rod. Over time, this contant folding of the line caused it to "break" right at the point where I kept making a hinge. It looked exactly like your pics. I use loops and don't have that issue likely beacuse I am aware of it and try not to pinch my line into a "V".
 

silver creek

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Silver, thank's for the vid that's super simple....will be trying that.

50lb butt section on the leader might call for some precision on my part....and a healthy challenge for the fingers
Do NOT use 50 ln nylon for the fly line connector.

Cut the loop off of a new leader and tie it to the end of the fly line with the nail less nail knot.

When that leader wears out, cut the leader butt leaving about a foot of leader butt still attached to the fly line with nail less nail knot. Now tie a perfection loop at the end of the attached butt section. Then loop to loop connect a new leader to the loop of the butt section that you have nail knotted to the fly line.

Since the new leader's butt section is the same diameter and material as the one you attached to the fly line end, there should be a smooth transition of the cast though that junction.
 

thomasw

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I understand the preference for a smooth transition between the fly line and leader butt; but that knot will, as Flav suggests above, make things worse for you. I have had loop to loop hang ups in the guides which lost me some fish -- now I use only needle nail knots. Learn to use the simple Tie-Fast tool or learn to tie nail knots with a small tube. I'll post a couple videos. The nail knot and, in particular, the needle nail knot gives you a very strong and smooth leader to line connection ...

Tie-fast nail knot tool -- which is inexpensive and very effective for anyone:)



How to make a needle nail knot (in this ex. with a tube, but one can easily substitute the tie-fast tool or other tool)


HTH
thomasw
 
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trev

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25# test is plenty big. Cover the nail knot with PlioBond.
It may be a color issue too, I had a line that color that had the softest coating of any line I've ever used any knot would tear the coating on that line, so it got a loop whipped onto it.
 

fatbillybob

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UV resin! I can't live without the stuff to finish off these connections or tie flys. Streamside you can even repair a fly with it. UV resin makes the bump through the guides smoother and seals the flyline end. It will repair and seal that small break in the coating. There are many you can buy or spend a bit more and buy Loon Knotsense from the fly shop.

Coating fractures can be caused by knot tying but also by poor quality or old fly lines that are no longer supple. At 100 bucks
a Iine, I bet we all have fly lines beyond the "sell by" date.
 

Brodfish

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UV resin! I can't live without the stuff to finish off these connections or tie flys. Streamside you can even repair a fly with it. UV resin makes the bump through the guides smoother and seals the flyline end. It will repair and seal that small break in the coating. There are many you can buy or spend a bit more and buy Loon Knotsense from the fly shop.

Coating fractures can be caused by knot tying but also by poor quality or old fly lines that are no longer supple. At 100 bucks
a Iine, I bet we all have fly lines beyond the "sell by" date.

Iv considered doing this and wondered about the heat generated when the uv cures....or the chemical compounds compatibility with monofilament.

This works for you?
 

silver creek

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Iv considered doing this and wondered about the heat generated when the uv cures....or the chemical compounds compatibility with monofilament.

This works for you?
The resin should NOT get too hot when it cures. If it does, it has too much photoactivator. Use a less powerful light or buy a resin with less activator.

UV resins are compatible with nylon mono. There should not be any chemical reaction between them. UV resins should not be used with cyanoacrylate (super) glues. They can react with each other. .
 

osseous

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You know, you can always use.... a nail. Nail knots are pretty easy that way~

Tapered leaders make good butt sections- good suggestion there

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
 

fatbillybob

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Iv considered doing this and wondered about the heat generated when the uv cures....or the chemical compounds compatibility with monofilament.

This works for you?
Yes not an issue. If you don't like generic UV epoxy resin you can use "LOON Knotsense" made for this purpose from a flyfishing products manufacturer.
 
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