Scandi & Skagit , help before in order.

Sinister

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I have a 3weight , 11 foot trout spey.
looking to line up , but a few things confuse me.
1. Both lines require a 6 weight level/shooting taper of the backing before the running line?
2. Does a scandi require a tip section like Skagit?
Thanks.
 

dillon

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Backing is spooled on the reel first, then the running line. I use a long (13-14) on a scandi line. Or, a sinki poly leader can be used. But, I prefer a scandi or a mid belly line for surface applications and a skagit for sink tips.

Welcome to the forum.
 

Ard

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It seems the running line issue is settled so I'll suggest you learn to cast using the longer head first then adapt your movements when you get a shorter Skagit head. Learning to cast the longer rods in this new style is the first task people face. Once you become proficient with some basic casting try to focus on adapting new and perhaps more efficient fishing approaches and techniques to coincide with the new rod.

I won't present myself as an authority on fishing however in the fly fishing game I witness a great deal of focus on casting and specifically distance in casting. Fancy casts with names you may be unfamiliar with are going to pervade your new fishing experience to an extent that you may believe you must master all of them. Your new fly fishing outfit opens new possibilities for you in the realm of efficiency when fishing so try to keep an eye on that as a goal.
 
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Sinister

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It seems the running line issue is settled so I'll suggest you learn to cast using the longer head first then adapt your movements when you get a shorter Skagit head. Learning to cast the longer rods in this new style is the first task people face. Once you become proficient with some basic casting try to focus on adapting new and perhaps more efficient fishing approaches and techniques to coincide with the new rod.

I won't present myself as an authority on fishing however in the fly fishing game I witness a great deal of focus on casting and specifically distance in casting. Fancy casts with names you may be unfamiliar with are going to pervade your new fishing experience to an extent that you may believe you must master all of them. Your new fly fishing outfit opens new possibilities for you in the realm of efficiency when fishing so try to keep an eye on that as a goal.
Does the Scandi line need a tip, or you tie your leader right to the end of it?
 

eastfly66

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you can use the Versileaders 10' or make a long mono leader off the Rio Scandi. On a 3110 your probably in the 250 grain class.

Also send Ard a PM and ask about his loops , they will save you a ton of $$ in the long run.
 

LOC

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It seems the running line issue is settled so I'll suggest you learn to cast using the longer head first then adapt your movements when you get a shorter Skagit head. Learning to cast the longer rods in this new style is the first task people face. Once you become proficient with some basic casting try to focus on adapting new and perhaps more efficient fishing approaches and techniques to coincide with the new rod.

I won't present myself as an authority on fishing however in the fly fishing game I witness a great deal of focus on casting and specifically distance in casting. Fancy casts with names you may be unfamiliar with are going to pervade your new fishing experience to an extent that you may believe you must master all of them. Your new fly fishing outfit opens new possibilities for you in the realm of efficiency when fishing so try to keep an eye on that as a goal.
So this is the route I took. I was told to start with Skagit but my intuition was to start with Scandi for how I like to operate. If I can figure out how to load the rod effectively with the longer line when I swapped over to Skagit it would be a easy transition. This worked for me.

As Ard suggest pick a river right cast and a river left cast and practice each so you can fish effectively. Once there expand your repertoire if need be or for the joy of Spey casting.

Scandi tips, I use a 11’ poly tip slow sink. If you want to to set to forget, add a poly leader and tie your tippet into the poly leader.
 
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Ard

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Does the Scandi line need a tip, or you tie your leader right to the end of it?
Once you become accustomed to casting Scandi lines you can get away with some weight on the tip. Whether you fulfill your weight requirement with weighted flies or with what are known as 'Mini Heads' a person can become quite good at making proper casts to whatever distance is needed with some sinking material on the tip of a Scandi head / line.

If you were to look at the top of the General Discussion forum category you can find a bunch of Pinned threads. One of them is this one in that post you will see links to other threads. Look for one called Getting it Down. That will explain a rather unconventional approach to fishing a fly deeper that one may expect when using Scandi lines. For a light line like you will have I would probably use 3 foot of Z-9 weighing 27 grains to aid in getting down. One of the main reasons I have never had interest in the new Trout Spey rods is that they are so light lined that carrying a substantial payload combination of fly and mini head seems counter productive. My own trout Spey rods use 475 grain Scandi lines which provide me a great deal of latitude in my mini head and fly weights and enable me to get down to where the fish will have decisions to make.

If you have not ordered yet you may want to at least consider going to the heavy trout Spey sets in order to bulk up that line weight. Going light could result in becoming aware that that guy on the forum was in fact correct.
 

Unknownflyman

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I am only versed in the differences between scandi and skagit lines for 7wt and above on 11` rods or longer. Trout spey and single hand spey the grain weights are so small and the lines, I have no idea what they can carry as far as payload, I fish decent size flies up to large flies for steelhead and salmon.
 

eastfly66

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graboid.JPG

This is an example of what you throw on a 250 grain Scandi and it's a ball but the best is a team of old school soft hackles.
 

eastfly66

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Ok, Ok, I guess I have to align my thought process with smaller fish & flies :(
Yup, that is where the trout spey , mini spey , light switch or whatever you want to call it shines. Good fit for SMB too but not the tool for going deep to Salmon or even trout holding in deep pools and/or fast water. Versileaders just don't get down fast enough and I don't think even the iMOW tips can do it .....least not in my experience. The rod will handle a large trout , you landed a steelhead or salmon on a old Superfine right , I cant see how a modern rod twice as long wouldnt do it but again a large brown holding in a deep pool your just not going to reach out & get the fly down to him with something in the 250 grain class. I guess you could probably rig some type of sink tip and with the right line management get it down but casting the fly on on that light a rig becomes a bear. I've used the T material build into the leader like you wrote about but on the 3 wt. it didn't have the mass I needed to get the fly out there , not the T material I needed to get it down in the deeper pools. That's a job best left for the heavier rods.

I'm not saying it cant be done, I could probably put a 475 grain on my Sage Circa and "get it done" but why in God's name would I want to with a rack full of better tools. Back to the light trout spey class , I've landed some decent 17" + trout on the 3110 taken on P&O ......that's a good fit for the light trout speys.

1 wt. - I have no idea.
2 wt. - keep it to soft hackles.
3 wt. - S.H. & light streamers.
4 wt. - Streamers with B.H. small cones bunnies and such.
5 wt. - Same as above , little bigger, little deeper & better in the wind but not much.

( Leave your Headbangers , Sex Dungeons & T-11 at home)

When you relocate to GA. Ard , I'm willing to bet it won't be long before you buy a Trout Spey.
 
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