Updated reel seat and Grip

Upstate08

Well-known member
Messages
303
Reaction score
455
Location
There
A while back I picked up this LL Bean 6wt. The threads on the reel seat were completely stripped so I ordered a new one from Matt @ Proof. He’s always super helpful and carries quality components. I like these Atlas up-lockers and found one in “English Green”, which seemed to match the LL Bean theme. In the process of trying to get the old seat off, I ripped the cork in two. Another call to Matt and luckily he hadn’t shipped yet, so a 6.5” snub nose cork was added to the order. Finally got around to putting it all together last night. Guess I better start shopping for a new reel 😉
A2423317-26FB-48A9-A121-7923AAE31095.jpegAA29EDED-3C8C-49D2-AAD1-9204C6BFC326.jpegE28CC082-AE20-46CC-B6D6-EE219612273D.jpeg
 
Last edited:

flav

Well-known member
Messages
1,191
Reaction score
461
Location
oregon
Nicely done. I've replaced the seats and handles on several production rods. It's pretty easy and the results can be a much nicer rod for a small investment. Those Atlas seats from Proof are pretty nice. I built up a rod with one last month, and I plan on making another soon.
 

philly

Well-known member
Messages
556
Reaction score
259
Location
Philadelphia, PA
Nice job. I replaced the grip on my 6 wgt a couple of months ago. I kept the same reel seat I used in the original build. Still I had to remove the two guides, along with the hook holder on the bottom half of the two piece rod to get it done. So I'll echo flav's question how did you get the grip, and come to think of it, the reel seat? That looks like the original hook holder in front of the grip.
 

swcr

Well-known member
Messages
111
Reaction score
14
Location
Avondale Az
The taper is minimal so you just enlarge the bore to match the butt od. . If too much play, then you can just build a thred arbor right at the winding check and down a bit to make up for the difference
 

LOC

Well-known member
Messages
1,100
Reaction score
905
Location
S. CA
The taper is minimal so you just enlarge the bore to match the butt od. . If too much play, then you can just build a thred arbor right at the winding check and down a bit to make up for the difference
Nice job and looks great!

I've had to go bottom up before as well.
I ended up using something similar to dry wall tape to fit the grip tight onto the blank.
 

Upstate08

Well-known member
Messages
303
Reaction score
455
Location
There
I went bottom up. I enlarged the bore of the grip and reel seat ever so slightly (like 1/32 of an inch, if that) and it went on no problem. It was actually tight enough that I didn’t need to tape it at all. I used Gorilla glue, which expands quite a bit so you’ve got to be careful. I used a small paint brush and put on the thinnest of coats. No seepage.
 

frickerdog

Well-known member
Messages
442
Reaction score
439
Location
New Jersey
Nicely done. I've replaced the seats and handles on several production rods. It's pretty easy and the results can be a much nicer rod for a small investment. Those Atlas seats from Proof are pretty nice. I built up a rod with one last month, and I plan on making another soon.
I'm not a rod builder, but I've seen a lot of production rods being used on the river that would benefit from such a replacement. How do you remove the old handle/seat?
 

Upstate08

Well-known member
Messages
303
Reaction score
455
Location
There
I followed Matt’s tutorials from the Proof website. I did the plastic bag/boiling water thing, and then bought a heat gun. Definitely recommend the heat gun. Just be careful if you’re looking to save the cork, the gun will cook your cork in a hurry. Low and slow is the ticket.

Here’s a link to the tutorials. Scroll to find the one entitled, “How to remove a reel seat”

And once you’re done putting your rod back together, the heat gun comes in handy when refinishing kitchen cabinets 🍻

Good luck!
 
Top