Knowing when a line is too light?

floorabove

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How can I know , really be sure, a given line is too light for a particular rod?

I know that lines and rods both have weight numbers but in my experience these are just very loose guides.
 

brookfieldangler

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The way I see it, and that doesn't always mean much, you have a few options

1. If you have the entire head of the line out of the rod and can't seem to load the rod still, then your line might be too light. (this assumes your casting is in good form and you aren't intentionally underlining to carry more line in the air)

2. common cents test on the rod and weighing the head of the line

3. Borrowing a higher wt line and casting with that. If that line feels better, your original line might be too light
 

floorabove

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The way I see it, and that doesn't always mean much, you have a few options

1. If you have the entire head of the line out of the rod and can't seem to load the rod still, then your line might be too light. (this assumes your casting is in good form and you aren't intentionally underlining to carry more line in the air)

2. common cents test on the rod and weighing the head of the line

3. Borrowing a higher wt line and casting with that. If that line feels better, your original line might be too light


I am experiencing #1 , problem is I am not that great a caster to begin with.

It is a 7 wt rod, and 7 wt line, but I feel very "uncoordinated " with this combo, I guess I could throw my reel with 9 wt line on it and see what happens?
 

brookfieldangler

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That might help a little bit at best but working on your cast might help better. The heavier line will help with short casts but won't do much when you want to start casting farther. It's like trying to tighten a bolt with a monkey wrench instead of a box wrench

I'm sure there is a local shop or member that could give you a few pointers
 

floorabove

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That might help a little bit at best but working on your cast might help better. The heavier line will help with short casts but won't do much when you want to start casting farther. It's like trying to tighten a bolt with a monkey wrench instead of a box wrench

I'm sure there is a local shop or member that could give you a few pointers
I am largely self taught. Time is my problem. When I get some free time I will schedule a lesson, or find time to work on this.

I started in the salt, surf fishing for striped bass, blues, albies, fluke.....

So I started with a ten weight, bought a few 8 weights after that and a nine weight.

This summer and last I have tried to become a freshwater fly fisherman, last summer with a 9 ft 5 wt in small rivers and the Deleware, the problem was I had/ still have very little clue how to catch trout and trout disapear in the summer. The movement of water in a river/stream hid some of my faults as far as where my line was going.

So this summer I picked up a 7 wt , nd targeted smallmouth which I can catch on spinning gear , but the 7 wt and the line were giving me fits. Fishing in ponds/lakes is similar to the salt in that the cast has to get out there where you want it, even more so than the salt as pond/lake water doesnt really move.

I am so used to throwing the heavier salt gear that I am not certain id it is my muscle memory or the line?
 

brookfieldangler

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Well what exactly happening in your cast? Is it an accuracy thing? Not being able to get distance? Is line in a big pile?

Also what rod and line do you have?
 

floorabove

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The rod is an older loomis im6 7 wt 8' 2 piece, the line is sage equator 7wt.

The line is crumbling, also i feel like i can not get the line going fast enough.
 

brookfieldangler

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Is it the G Loomis Signature series IM6 by chance? If so, that MIGHT be part of your problem if your heavier rods are all fast rods like a lot of those upper weight classes tend to be.

The Sig series was not a fast rod and you may be having a hard time finding your timing with a slower rod.

Aside from that, take that rod to a fly shop and try a few different lines. If you can't find a line that makes it happy, it may be you or the stick.
 

floorabove

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I need to try a few different lines, I thought I had slowed it down, but maybe I need to really slow my cast down


Thanks for the help
 

roadkill1948

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I need to try a few different lines, I thought I had slowed it down, but maybe I need to really slow my cast down


Thanks for the help
It always helps me to watch the back cast. I actually aim the back cast about 45 degrees up and back. By watching the loop, I can get into sync with the rod/line/leader/fly/wind.... My most common problem is not letting the back cast develop.
 
T

turbineblade

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Just a tip:

As your casting improves it is amazing how "great" your fly rod becomes. I'd dead serious about this. I swapped lines, rods, etc. for a while when I first got into fly fishing and eventually I reached a level of competence that now, I'm confident picking up just about any rod and any line (within reason) and casting fine with it. You'll be there too -- just keep your current stuff and practice.

What I mean is that good casting mechanics trumps rod/line configuration.

That said, you might have minor preferences for rod actions and + or - 1 weight of fly line or something. That's normal.

Just keep at it! :) That's what I do.
 

floorabove

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It always helps me to watch the back cast. I actually aim the back cast about 45 degrees up and back. By watching the loop, I can get into sync with the rod/line/leader/fly/wind.... My most common problem is not letting the back cast develop.
I know I am not a great efficient caster but with other combos I own i can form loops SOME of the time, even nice loops SOME of the time, I just couldn't get this combo to work. I think I need to really really slow it down.
 

cb

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I know I am not a great efficient caster but with other combos I own i can form loops SOME of the time, even nice loops SOME of the time, I just couldn't get this combo to work. I think I need to really really slow it down.
I recommend you borrow/buy a 'soft' rod - an old glass rod or even cane would do nicely - and just get a feel for 'working' with a fly line. I recently put a softer actioned rod in the hands of actually quite a good caster and the surprise and joy was a delight to see. (It was a new Hardy 'Glass' 7ft #3 - with #3 line)

Most people have forgotten (or dont realize) that bendy rods make fly casting easy and a pleasure!

Cheers

Colin.

PS. I make the assumption here that your light line is not working the rod because the rod is stiff - and thus you need to do more with your wrist/flick and left hand hauling (more advanced techniques). Softer rods do the work for you!

PPS. Take a softish fly rod with fly line to practise on grass. Cast horizontally with a fixed length of line (say x3 of rod) and simply false cast (back and forth) keeping the rod and cast parallel to the ground at waist height. False cast without hitting the ground until you can do it with your eyes shut. Once mastered and natural you now have the feel of a fly rod!
 
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floorabove

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I recommend you borrow/buy a 'soft' rod - an old glass rod or even cane would do nicely - and just get a feel for 'working' with a fly line. I recently put a softer actioned rod in the hands of actually quite a good caster and the surprise and joy was a delight to see. (It was a new Hardy 'Glass' 7ft #3 - with #3 line)

Most people have forgotten that bendy rods make fly casting easy and a pleasure!

Cheers

Colin.

PS. I make the assumption here that your light line is not working the rod because the rod is stiff - and thus you need to do more with your wrist/flick and left hand hauling (more advanced techniques). Softer rods do the work for you!

PPS. Take a softish fly rod with fly line to practise on grass. Cast horizontally with a fixed length of line (say x3 of rod) and simply false cast (back and forth) keeping the rod and cast parallel to the ground at waist height. False cast without hitting the ground until you can do it with your eyes shut. Once mastered and natural you now have the feel of a fly rod!
great advice, thanks
 

cb

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I forgot to say - keep your elbow fixed into your belly/hip when doing the drill above. An out of control elbow is never good in fly or spey casting. :thumbsup:
 
T

turbineblade

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I forgot to say - keep your elbow fixed into your belly/hip when doing the drill above. An out of control elbow is never good in fly or spey casting. :thumbsup:
Left advocates the "elbow on the shelf" style all the time. That said, style really isn't important in fly casting -- the end result is what matters.

If slightly raising the elbow is more comfortable to the caster -- go for it. The guy from Sexy loops raises his elbow quite a lot when casting and his casting is excellent.

I just wanted to make sure no one is casting in an uncomfortable manner just to adhere to someone's "style".
 

Jackster

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Left advocates the "elbow on the shelf" style all the time. That said, style really isn't important in fly casting -- the end result is what matters.

If slightly raising the elbow is more comfortable to the caster -- go for it. The guy from Sexy loops raises his elbow quite a lot when casting and his casting is excellent.

I just wanted to make sure no one is casting in an uncomfortable manner just to adhere to someone's "style".
tb... I think the cb meant to keep the elbow in when doing his horizontal drill. Flailing away with a loose elbow when casting in front of you invites all sorts of ugly into your stroke.That drill is a good one to get your loops in shape. It allows you to see both loops without getting carpal neck syndrome.
If you slow the stroke way down or cast extra line you can actually see the loop at rest laying on the grass.
 
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