Bonefishing is hard! A Cayman Islands Report

dean_mt

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My brother and his family moved to Grand Cayman Island last summer so my family had been planning/dreaming of a trip there this spring. I had never been to the Caribbean and have long dreamed of standing in that emerald water, casting to visible fish. We left Montana on April 7 for a 10 day spring break trip. It's a long way from Montana to the Caymans.

Our first layover was 12 hours in Las Vegas, another first for me. After a few hours walking the strip I had seen enough, but the day went on and on. We departed on a red-eye and got to Houston early the next morning, and slept sitting up at an empty terminal gate. We didn't leave till noon or so, my daughter and I were ready to give up! We got to the island and the humid ocean air hit, finally at my brother's apartment the view, breeze, and cold beer made the previous 27 hours fade away.


We didn't do any real fishing until the end of the week when my brother and I flew out to Little Cayman Island. We flew to Cayman Brac and then got on a twin Otter for the last jump to the little island. Open cockpit, really fun flight.


We were picked up at the "airport" by a dude that works as a fishing and scuba guide at the small resort we stayed at. They call all the places resorts but they are small, laid back, and unpretentious. We head out on his boat looking for "a mud" -- a place where so many fish are actively feeding on the bottom that you see a big plum of white mud in the water. The wind was cranking 20+ knots and casting was of course and issue. But fishing in these muds is pretty simple, cast and let your fly sink then retrieve with short strips. The hook snags grass often and it's hard to tell if its a fish or not. I was strip setting a lot grass. I did manage one small Jack, two small yellow tail grouper, and one bonefish. It was small and made a couple hard charges but not the instant run straight away like I was told every fish does. After working the mud to death we hit a nice flat on the lee side of a small island. We saw some fish and made some casts but no luck. We went back for a late lunch.


We rented a couple scooters for 24 hours and had access to the entire island basically. The dude from the resort showed us all the potential spots and protected flats and we were off.


The next morning we hopped on the scooters and went up the road to a different resort that rents kayaks. We paddled out to the island to stalk that flat for a few hours. I got pretty good at spotting fish but they were either too close or too far off and moving the wrong way. At the edge of the flat on the corner of the island there was a little sandy point and some really bones kept cruising through there occasionally. Some small groups of 3-4 fish went by me but I was exposed to the wind again and couldn't get a cast out in time. Then I saw a large school of 10-15 fish come off a grass patch and moving toward me. I'd try to get in a position where I thought might work and then they'd veer off. We had them sort of trapped as they would head toward my brother then spook and head back to me. I'd cast out in front and wait, then strip when I thought they were close to my fly. It was fun but quite frustrating. A whole lot of waiting and watching then a frantic moment of stripping line, shoot a cast... nothing.

It was super beautiful and a great experience. That little island was a lot of fun.


 

ryc72

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Awesome. I know how you feel! I just fished little cayman for spring break as well...5 half days of fishing and just one 2lb bonefish to hand! Next time you go you should fish tarpon lake. Big lake in the middle of little cayman with lots of 5-10 lb tarpon...eerily beautiful but smelly as well. Fished two half days for them and cast to lots of fish but no takes. Had a few shots at some real happy permit also on my flats trips but no takes there either. I'm guessing the island you paddled out to is Owen island...saw lots of bonefish there too...once again no hookups. Despite the low numbers, had a great time. Easy place to diy bonefish and permit. Can't wait to go back!
 

dean_mt

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That's cool. We did go to Tarpon Lake our only evening there. The guy from the place we stayed let us use his boat even though he couldn't take us. We were only out there for an hour and saw lots of fish rolling. Eery for sure. I had one old oar to "pole" us around and I didn't want to get stuck out there. My brother had one eat but then realized his hook was broken. I didn't even cast out there.

Did you fish with Chris at Southern Cross? The guy at Pirate's Point we went with is Mike, he said the permit there are impossible.
 

ryc72

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Yes. Fished with Chris at scc (which is where we stayed and highly recommend both Chris and scc). We waded most of the time when flats fishing and saw a decent number of bonefish and a handful of permit but between the wind and the spookiness of the fish only landed one nice bone...much like your trip, the wind was whipping pretty good most of the time we were there. Under one of the docks at scc they have a few resident tarpon that look like they are from 20-40 lbs...so tempted to just drop a fly in front of them but couldn't bring myself to do it.
 

sweetandsalt

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I have never been to the Cayman's which look lovely...I like palm trees, mangroves and Iguanas. But it is true, bonefishing is challenging particularly with a stiff wind. Anything over 12 knots is a real handicap. Sure there are days with the sun and breeze to your back and bones tailing all over the place...in my dreams.

The Caribbean in general, with apparently the exception of Cuba, is know for small bonefish, not just the Caymans but the bigger fisheries in Mexico and Belize too. The Bahamas is where you find bigger fish and the biggest are most likely in Florida. Florida is where we fished three weeks ago and I saw perhaps a half dozen bones on an afternoon tide; all singles ranging from 5 to 8 pounds (a 12 pounder was taken by our guide's client the day before) and visibility was good but the wind was a steady 18 knots in my face and even going to a potent 9-weight did not permit me to place the fly anywhere near any of these fish...hence my not catching one.

Unlike a trout, bonefish will just not stay still and quite often one cast is all you get, it has to be perfect and even that does not assure the fish will eat.
 

flyminded

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Great report. Makes me want to try it.
I found it a fairly natural progression from Redfish .... slightly improved casting ability required to catch fish consistently and fish spotting. Unlike Redfish that tend to eat whatever, within reason, you put in front of them .....you often have to feed a Bonefish ... which only time chasing them will teach you how to read their behavior....and then of course they don't always do what you expect ...much like every other fish.
 

sweetandsalt

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they don't always do what you expect ...much like every other fish
Only more so. Bonefish are born spooky and as they get bigger and older become more so. They feed in clear, skinny water and have genetic memory of airborne predators attacking, going back millions of years. They are among my favorite fish to pursue; I only wish I could afford to fish them more often. I used to predominantly wade fish them but as I age my preference has become to hunt them from a guided skiff.

Up a Creek in Andros
 

karstopo

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I found it a fairly natural progression from Redfish .... slightly improved casting ability required to catch fish consistently and fish spotting. Unlike Redfish that tend to eat whatever, within reason, you put in front of them .....you often have to feed a Bonefish ... which only time chasing them will teach you how to read their behavior....and then of course they don't always do what you expect ...much like every other fish.
I really like the DIY nature of his trip in the Caymans. Get a little local information, rent a kayak or wade and go for it. I wonder where other similar DIY bonefish places are? Someplace where you aren't just there to fish and you aren't really looking to get a guide.

---------- Post added at 08:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 AM ----------

Doing the dedicated bone fishing trip at some fishing only type of lodge doesn't seem to make sense for me as I have never even seen a bonefish and have really no idea what I'm up against. But I could see wading some flat near a hotel while the wife goes to the spa. Maybe a couple of close encounters, even the very likely misses, with a bonefish or two would whet the appetite for more.
 

sweetandsalt

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Doing the dedicated bone fishing trip at some fishing only type of lodge doesn't seem to make sense for me as I have never even seen a bonefish and have really no idea what I'm up against. But I could see wading some flat near a hotel while the wife goes to the spa. Maybe a couple of close encounters, even the very likely misses, with a bonefish or two would whet the appetite for more.
Starting in the 1980's I did DIY bonefish trips with a small group of friends. We would rent a house, a boat, a charcoal grill. We would bring in Styrofoam boxes of frozen steaks, chops and chickens and buy fruit, vegetables and sea creatures locally. We brought charts, ship-to-shore radios and lots of extra tackle. We would stay for two weeks and explore one island after another on subsequent trips, learn a lot and have adventures, even catch some fish. We did this for years and I have many fond memories from those trips, mostly in the Bahamas but I have fished Mexico and Belize too. As grown up responsibilities like marriage, parenthood and all that goes with it expanded, time to drop off the grid began to diminish. But not the wanderlust to pursue the ghost of the flats. So for the last couple of decades I've been going to bonefish lodges. Using a Bahamian guide has expanded my insights into their local culture and history and dramatically increased the number of bonefish I get to cast to. The skiff covers a lot of water, the guide know the tides and wind and where fish may be at any point relative to them. I still don't lock into a "favorite" destination and always am open to different habitats on out islands big and small. It is also very nice to come back to the camp dock and, after hosing down our gear, a skiff also facilitates my bringing multiple outfits out for the day, a steaming platter of Conch Fritters awaits us at the bar.
 

flyminded

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Been doing the DIY Bonefish for 2 weeks a year for the last 5 years ....this December will be the 6th trip.

Renting a house, preferably close to a flat with a boat or kayaks included. It's a learning curve, and yes I've used a guide for a total of 4 days during the 70 days I've been at it. Did they put me on more and bigger fish yeah of course they did - but there is something about kayaking or wading out and finding your own fish and fooling them on flies you tied yourself. And it doesn't need to be expensive depending on the style of accommodation you require. It's the trip I look forward to the most every year.
 

karstopo

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Been doing the DIY Bonefish for 2 weeks a year for the last 5 years ....this December will be the 6th trip.

Renting a house, preferably close to a flat with a boat or kayaks included. It's a learning curve, and yes I've used a guide for a total of 4 days during the 70 days I've been at it. Did they put me on more and bigger fish yeah of course they did - but there is something about kayaking or wading out and finding your own fish and fooling them on flies you tied yourself. And it doesn't need to be expensive depending on the style of accommodation you require. It's the trip I look forward to the most every year.
Any particular country you like to do this? This has much more appeal to me than the guide or lodge scene. Is it difficult or dicey securing accommodations in a foreign country? Or are you renting in the USA? Only possible bonefish states are Florida and Hawaii. There is Puerto Rico and the USVI.

I don't have anything against guides or lodges, I just like the idea of a house and setting your own pace, fish, don't fish, whatever. Bring some friends along. Look at the water. No pressure of scheduling guides and the like.
 

flyminded

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Check your pm's - happy to share more if you want the benefit of my hindsight and ,compared to some on here, limited experience.
 

dean_mt

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I certainly want to try it again, and I'm sure I will, but will need to find something a little easier and or cheaper to get to. Actually I'm very lucky to have my brother living on a Caribbean island, if we didn't have a place to stay with family that trip would be out of reach for me.

Are there flats on the Baja peninsula? That seems like a pretty easy place to get to with nice beaches, easy snorkling, etc for family fun.

Where about in Florida is the flats fishing and can one get to them on there own?
 

nevadanstig

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Thanks for the report! As there are no pictures of fish, I'm now going to disregard it and assume none were actually caught ?
Also, I would like to apologize in advance to whatever may or may not have happened during your short stay in Nevada.
But in all seriousness thanks for the report. Seems like a pretty stark contrast to the fishing you'd be used to in Montana, and it's good to hear you got to enjoy a nice tropical vacation.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

sweetandsalt

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If one were to Google DIY Bonefishing, there are books and articles on this subject suggesting islands where it is fairly feasible. I have not done it but I know there is at least one Park in the FL Keys where one can camp and wade an accessible flat.

On some larger islands in the Bahamas there are modest priced places to stay with a restaurant near by but even with a rental car, shore accessible flats tend not to be the most productive.

We American trout fishers are a bit spoiled. We have some of the greatest rivers that we can drive up to and fish merely for the cost of a fishing license. It is not that way in most of the rest of the trout fishing World where private access, often costly, is the norm. While it is true I had some great DIY bonefishing experiences years ago, it is less simple today. Newer Bahamian regulations really are designed to produce jobs for Bahamian citizens and reserve their superb fishery for generating revenue. Even out of the way, funky camps have grown costly or have disappeared. Add the costs of flying to Nassau, then boarding a small prop plane to get to an out island, arranging food, lodging and a boat and the cost escalate to the point where staying in a camp and fishing with a guide starts to look reasonable. Usually there is no pool, nor a great beach or other family resort type amenities. And, if there are like on Nassau or Freeport, then there are no bonefish and you have to retain guide to pick you up at your hotel and drive then boat you someplace were there are fish.

Sure there are locations like the USVI and Puerto Rico and, while attending a wedding in St. Johns once, my wife and I took time to roam a few flats, 8-weight rods in hand, and I recall we saw 3 or 4 fish. We recently did a family visit in S. Florida and hired a guide when we could escape responsibilities, we saw a few fish then too. When I go fishing for trout or striped bass near home but especially if I am going to endure air travel to a tropical flats fishing environment, I want it to be a high quality and naturally beautiful place and in the instance of bonefish, it is likely going to be in the Bahamas and cost a lot of money.
 

diy

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Some great information here, certainly a subject near and dear to my heart. I have been fly fishing in the tropics for twenty years, started out at full service lodges and just found I enjoyed the experience more on my own. I still go to lodges and use independent guides every year but spend most of my 90 plus days per year on my own. The learning curve is steep when you are by yourself, but the rewards make up for it. Sometimes the reward is just seeing fish, other times it actually landing one. They are all little victories, that make you a better angler. There is much more information available today then there use to be thanks to the internet. And some Bahamian Islands, North Caicos and southern Yucatan locations that lend themselves more to the DIY experience. Good luck and hope to see you on the water.
 

msl819

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My brother and his family moved to Grand Cayman Island last summer so my family had been planning/dreaming of a trip there this spring. I had never been to the Caribbean and have long dreamed of standing in that emerald water, casting to visible fish. We left Montana on April 7 for a 10 day spring break trip. It's a long way from Montana to the Caymans.

Our first layover was 12 hours in Las Vegas, another first for me. After a few hours walking the strip I had seen enough, but the day went on and on. We departed on a red-eye and got to Houston early the next morning, and slept sitting up at an empty terminal gate. We didn't leave till noon or so, my daughter and I were ready to give up! We got to the island and the humid ocean air hit, finally at my brother's apartment the view, breeze, and cold beer made the previous 27 hours fade away.


We didn't do any real fishing until the end of the week when my brother and I flew out to Little Cayman Island. We flew to Cayman Brac and then got on a twin Otter for the last jump to the little island. Open cockpit, really fun flight.


We were picked up at the "airport" by a dude that works as a fishing and scuba guide at the small resort we stayed at. They call all the places resorts but they are small, laid back, and unpretentious. We head out on his boat looking for "a mud" -- a place where so many fish are actively feeding on the bottom that you see a big plum of white mud in the water. The wind was cranking 20+ knots and casting was of course and issue. But fishing in these muds is pretty simple, cast and let your fly sink then retrieve with short strips. The hook snags grass often and it's hard to tell if its a fish or not. I was strip setting a lot grass. I did manage one small Jack, two small yellow tail grouper, and one bonefish. It was small and made a couple hard charges but not the instant run straight away like I was told every fish does. After working the mud to death we hit a nice flat on the lee side of a small island. We saw some fish and made some casts but no luck. We went back for a late lunch.


We rented a couple scooters for 24 hours and had access to the entire island basically. The dude from the resort showed us all the potential spots and protected flats and we were off.


The next morning we hopped on the scooters and went up the road to a different resort that rents kayaks. We paddled out to the island to stalk that flat for a few hours. I got pretty good at spotting fish but they were either too close or too far off and moving the wrong way. At the edge of the flat on the corner of the island there was a little sandy point and some really bones kept cruising through there occasionally. Some small groups of 3-4 fish went by me but I was exposed to the wind again and couldn't get a cast out in time. Then I saw a large school of 10-15 fish come off a grass patch and moving toward me. I'd try to get in a position where I thought might work and then they'd veer off. We had them sort of trapped as they would head toward my brother then spook and head back to me. I'd cast out in front and wait, then strip when I thought they were close to my fly. It was fun but quite frustrating. A whole lot of waiting and watching then a frantic moment of stripping line, shoot a cast... nothing.

It was super beautiful and a great experience. That little island was a lot of fun.


I spent two half days on a boat with a guide in the Keys fishing for Bones. We saw a total of one pod made one cast and no luck. Bonefish are still a fish on my list.
 
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