unsinkable
Active member
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 3
Tying Salmon Flies
Dreams of Salmon Flies
Iam going to show you how to tie a Salmon Fly that will out perform all others simply because it presents right profile, size, and floats high on the water. Stop here if you are not into different materials because this fly is definitely non-traditional and the main body is not tied but assembled. This fly floats like a cork and is impossible to sink always popping to the surface even in the roughest of water.
The ideal fly is 2½ to 3 inches long (6-8 Centimeters)
The materials are as follows:
Hook - size 2-6 any brand 4-6x long with as light of wire as possible
Thread - brown and metallic orange
Body - ¼ inch colored or UV reactive orange heat shrink or orange latex tubing
Head - ¼ inch gray polyethylene closed cell foam
Wing - home made wing material with black netting and some type of sparkle (to see how to make
search Unsinkable Flies on the web)
Antenna - brown monofilament
Legs - brown rubber
Eyes - black mono or vinyl
Egg Sack - ¼ inch round black foam
Collar - brown saddle (optional)
Shown in the pictures above are the materials to be used and a 15 watt soldering iron used to segment the heat shrink fly body. Note the two body materials the top one is orange UV Heat Shrink and the one below the top one is the colored heat shrink.
The heat shrink bodies above have been segmented and assembled prior to attachment to the hook. If the body is latex segmenting is performed by pulling the thread tightly around the hook shank. The egg sack and head is super glued into place along with shrinking with the soldering iron. The eyes are super glued into place.
Directions:
1. Wrap the hook shank with brown thread.
2. At the rear of the hook tie in the assembled fly body (6-10 wraps).
3. Tie in the rear legs (location of legs varies depending on amount of segments).
4. Work you way up the hook shank applying 6-10 wraps at each segment and tie in the middle legs.
5. Near the eye tie in the tie in the front legs.
6. Whip finish at the eye with the brown thread.
7. Tie in the metallic orange thread at the first or second front segment.
8. Attach the wing or wings (1 to 3 depending on the fly).
9. Whip finish with the metallic orange thread and apply a small amount of head cement or super glue
long the hook shank. This will stabilize the body and keep it from rotating on the hook shank.
10. Under side of finished fly.
The top three flies below do not have the optional brown saddle collar. The reason most salmon fly tiers add a collar or fur as wing is to provide flotation. This is not necessary on a salmon fly like this because of the air trapped inside the fly body. On the underside one can cut the bottom off the optional brown saddle to provide a better profile on the water.
"Doubter’s there are many, believers may be few, but you’ll never know until you try."
Dreams of Salmon Flies
Iam going to show you how to tie a Salmon Fly that will out perform all others simply because it presents right profile, size, and floats high on the water. Stop here if you are not into different materials because this fly is definitely non-traditional and the main body is not tied but assembled. This fly floats like a cork and is impossible to sink always popping to the surface even in the roughest of water.
The ideal fly is 2½ to 3 inches long (6-8 Centimeters)
The materials are as follows:
Hook - size 2-6 any brand 4-6x long with as light of wire as possible
Thread - brown and metallic orange
Body - ¼ inch colored or UV reactive orange heat shrink or orange latex tubing
Head - ¼ inch gray polyethylene closed cell foam
Wing - home made wing material with black netting and some type of sparkle (to see how to make
search Unsinkable Flies on the web)
Antenna - brown monofilament
Legs - brown rubber
Eyes - black mono or vinyl
Egg Sack - ¼ inch round black foam
Collar - brown saddle (optional)
Shown in the pictures above are the materials to be used and a 15 watt soldering iron used to segment the heat shrink fly body. Note the two body materials the top one is orange UV Heat Shrink and the one below the top one is the colored heat shrink.
The heat shrink bodies above have been segmented and assembled prior to attachment to the hook. If the body is latex segmenting is performed by pulling the thread tightly around the hook shank. The egg sack and head is super glued into place along with shrinking with the soldering iron. The eyes are super glued into place.
Directions:
1. Wrap the hook shank with brown thread.
2. At the rear of the hook tie in the assembled fly body (6-10 wraps).
3. Tie in the rear legs (location of legs varies depending on amount of segments).
4. Work you way up the hook shank applying 6-10 wraps at each segment and tie in the middle legs.
5. Near the eye tie in the tie in the front legs.
6. Whip finish at the eye with the brown thread.
7. Tie in the metallic orange thread at the first or second front segment.
8. Attach the wing or wings (1 to 3 depending on the fly).
9. Whip finish with the metallic orange thread and apply a small amount of head cement or super glue
long the hook shank. This will stabilize the body and keep it from rotating on the hook shank.
10. Under side of finished fly.
The top three flies below do not have the optional brown saddle collar. The reason most salmon fly tiers add a collar or fur as wing is to provide flotation. This is not necessary on a salmon fly like this because of the air trapped inside the fly body. On the underside one can cut the bottom off the optional brown saddle to provide a better profile on the water.
"Doubter’s there are many, believers may be few, but you’ll never know until you try."
Last edited:
