Let's Build a Rod Together
- Thread starter Frank Whiton
- Start date
All, I have never built a rod, but am possibly interested in giving it a whirl. Been thinking about buying a 10 ft 7/8 weight for pyramid lake fishing, not sure it would be any cheaper to build one, but then it wouild be a little more personal maybe. Or would this be a bad idea for a first rod build?
Dave
Dave
I can build one for photos of the steps if we need to. I was planning to build a 12 wt. and another spey rod anyway. Something in the 16 or 17 foot long zone for the long belly lines. I turn my own grips in case anyone wants to do that also. Not the cheapest way to go though.
---------- Post added at 09:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26 PM ----------
Not a bad idea. It's not going to be any harder than any other fly rod. Longer just means more guides, and once you do one....
dmwphoto
Well-known member
I am anxious to order components so let me know where and the basics I need.
Guys and gals, hopefully something is coming up real soon.
In the mean time, all the ones interested in building a rod, just Google up fly rod building. I think the first step is to understand what you're getting yourself into
Take some time to get acquainted with the hobby/obsession. You Tube has some videos on rod wrapping also.
What you're going to need component wise to start out-
Blank
Reel seat and insert- Uplocking, downlocking, sliding band, uplocking sliding band, downlocking sliding band. Nickel silver finish with wood inserts, aluminum- plain and anodized hardware, solid aluminum seats (usually for salt water apps)
Cork rings or cork grip- many styles to choose from
Guides- stripper guide and snake or single foot guides and a tip top. A rule of thumb for the number of guides is at least one more than the length of your blank. 7' blank- 8 guides and a tip top. 9' blank, 10 guides and a tip top. Etc. Etc.
Thread- your choice of color(s) Thread colors depend mainly on the blank color- something to compliment each other.
Rod builder epoxy (for the reel seat and grip), thread epoxy- High build (thick football type coating) Lite (thinner and less obtrusive IMHO) I like Permagloss or spar varnish too.
Some razor blades for cutting the thread.
Main Options are, Winding check-nickel silver, rubber, etc. Hook keeper- some people just don't like them.
Other goodies- feather inlays, rattan grips, burnt, copana, burled cork rings.
Dan, Auntie Em- any other suggestions?
In the mean time, all the ones interested in building a rod, just Google up fly rod building. I think the first step is to understand what you're getting yourself into
Take some time to get acquainted with the hobby/obsession. You Tube has some videos on rod wrapping also.What you're going to need component wise to start out-
Blank
Reel seat and insert- Uplocking, downlocking, sliding band, uplocking sliding band, downlocking sliding band. Nickel silver finish with wood inserts, aluminum- plain and anodized hardware, solid aluminum seats (usually for salt water apps)
Cork rings or cork grip- many styles to choose from
Guides- stripper guide and snake or single foot guides and a tip top. A rule of thumb for the number of guides is at least one more than the length of your blank. 7' blank- 8 guides and a tip top. 9' blank, 10 guides and a tip top. Etc. Etc.
Thread- your choice of color(s) Thread colors depend mainly on the blank color- something to compliment each other.
Rod builder epoxy (for the reel seat and grip), thread epoxy- High build (thick football type coating) Lite (thinner and less obtrusive IMHO) I like Permagloss or spar varnish too.
Some razor blades for cutting the thread.
Main Options are, Winding check-nickel silver, rubber, etc. Hook keeper- some people just don't like them.
Other goodies- feather inlays, rattan grips, burnt, copana, burled cork rings.
Dan, Auntie Em- any other suggestions?
As this is potentially my first build, any recommendations for a vendor for the stuff, and also, I have no clue which reel seat, which blank (tiger eye -from who?) what size quides, etc....I get the 10 guides and tip top for a 9 foot rod, but what size tip top? what size guides, etc?
Oh, and I have be perusing some videos, a lot of them have special wrapping rigs, and stuff for wrapping on guides and reaming out cork, etc. we are going to do this by hand right?
d
d
Oh, and I have be perusing some videos, a lot of them have special wrapping rigs, and stuff for wrapping on guides and reaming out cork, etc. we are going to do this by hand right?
d
d
It may be helpful to check out the site by J. Stockard fly fishing JS Fly Fishing: Rod Building Supplies, Fly Tying Materials They have a very good graph showing the size and numbers of guides for whatever size rod, and also a good spacing guide, showing where to position the guides on the blanks. This, while not gospel, is a good aid. Hook and Hackle also has good directions for building a rod, and a chart for numbers and placements of guides. Hook & Hackle Fly Fishing Tackle, Fly Fishing Supplies, Fly Tying Supplies and Fly Rod Building Supplies I am in NO WAY affiliated with either of these businesses, I like them, I like the people you deal with at each of them, they're fair priced, and customer orientated.
Webrx ... sorry I didn't address your other question. When you order your rod blank, ask the people you get it from to measure the tip, and order a tip top to fit. And, yes, from my position, everything will be done by hand. If you're going to automate it all, why bother doing it?
Webrx ... sorry I didn't address your other question. When you order your rod blank, ask the people you get it from to measure the tip, and order a tip top to fit. And, yes, from my position, everything will be done by hand. If you're going to automate it all, why bother doing it?
Last edited:
As I said in my previous post, I have something hopefully coming down the pipeline. Be patient please.
Now like our Auntie mentions J Stockard, Hook and Hackle, I also use Anglers Workshop Angler's Workshop - Fishing Rods, Reels, Rod Building and Fly Tying
Golden Witch Golden Witch Technologies, Golden Witch Fly Fishing
I really like Snake Brand Guides Snake Brand - Where Elegance Enters the Sport
For blanks, Midwest Custom Rods have a great price on Tiger Eye blanks.
Custom Rod Building Supplies .com - Home
I was hoping to get Steve from Midwest Custom Fly Rods here on the site. The guy does some fantastic builds too, and is quiet knowledgable on the subject.
For the price of a TE blank, if you screw it up (and that's pretty hard to do), it won't set you back like a Sage blank would.
Now like our Auntie mentions J Stockard, Hook and Hackle, I also use Anglers Workshop Angler's Workshop - Fishing Rods, Reels, Rod Building and Fly Tying
Golden Witch Golden Witch Technologies, Golden Witch Fly Fishing
I really like Snake Brand Guides Snake Brand - Where Elegance Enters the Sport
For blanks, Midwest Custom Rods have a great price on Tiger Eye blanks.
Custom Rod Building Supplies .com - Home
I was hoping to get Steve from Midwest Custom Fly Rods here on the site. The guy does some fantastic builds too, and is quiet knowledgable on the subject.
For the price of a TE blank, if you screw it up (and that's pretty hard to do), it won't set you back like a Sage blank would.
Davec921
Well-known member
Wow what a great thread. I will subscribe.
Wish I had the time an money to do this. But I am working on getting my house ready to rent since I am going in the army in june.
I even browsed Hook an hackle web site an looke at there kits.
They have one kit that has every thing an I mean everything,
Blank, real, seat, guides, cork, tip top, thread, epoxy, an even a vid.
An the kit was still only 135 or so for a 5wt.
Cant wait to see some pics.
good luck all
DAVE
Wish I had the time an money to do this. But I am working on getting my house ready to rent since I am going in the army in june.
I even browsed Hook an hackle web site an looke at there kits.
They have one kit that has every thing an I mean everything,
Blank, real, seat, guides, cork, tip top, thread, epoxy, an even a vid.
An the kit was still only 135 or so for a 5wt.
Cant wait to see some pics.
good luck all
DAVE
I know this is gonna sound kinda dumb, but, I have a SA mastery series spey multi tip in a WF 6 F/S. My intent on this rod build is to build a rod for this line. the line itself was originally $150, but I got it for $30 brand new on clearance from Cabelas. I also already have a reel either a Okuma Magnitude or a Pflueger (Shakespeare Omni), so, this gives me $120 "free money" to build the rod. Now the question is do I build a 6 wt - ideally a 10 foot rod, or do I build a 7/8 as I have heard these lines are actually "heavier" then the marked 6 wt. And, can you get a 10 foot 6 weight blank? or do I need to build a spey rod?
Best info I can find says the head weight is 420 grains at 55 feet (49 foot head) or 27.2 grams, and depending on which head you use it ranges from 5 to 11 grams per 15 foot tip. that is like a 13 weight line if it is correct I think? Though we usually measure fly lines at 30 feet not 50.
thanks for any advice.
d
Best info I can find says the head weight is 420 grains at 55 feet (49 foot head) or 27.2 grams, and depending on which head you use it ranges from 5 to 11 grams per 15 foot tip. that is like a 13 weight line if it is correct I think? Though we usually measure fly lines at 30 feet not 50.
thanks for any advice.
d
Well to be honest, I bought the line because it was such a deal and I was gonna put it on my 6/7 fiberglass rod for fishing pyramid lake, but after researching it seems, like you have said, that this line my be too heavy for a 7 wt fiberglass rod. When this build a rod came up, I thought maybe I need to build a 10 foot 9 wt (didnt realize we were talking 10 or 12) rod to fish pyramid. Now I wonder if I should build something heavier and longer based on this research (and the info you have provided). So, once again, I am lost in the intricacies of this sport.....
d
d
If you have a 6/7 weight glass rod (I'm going to assume it's a Fenwick Ferrulite) this line would definitely not work. I have a Hardy Fibalite 8w that would struggle to chuck that line.
You might want to sell the line and make a "normal" rod. It's just something to think about. I don't think a spey type rod would be good on a lake, although it could be done (not by me). You really need moving water to load it up.
Would you be willing to build a spey rod? I doubt $120 would get you there. But... Spey rods have a much more restrictive grain window (the min. and max weight the head can be and still work) than a single hand rod. If you would like me to research what blanks will work with that line and not break your piggy bank, just give me the green light and I'll start looking.
HuronRiverDan
Well-known member
I bought a kit from the vendor MOJO mentioned, I was very satisfyed with what I got...I had the kit ordered when this thread was started; but can always use great advice, it's been awhile since my last rod build.
I got a switch rod, 10'8" 6wt...The only thing not included with my kit was a hook keeper, thread and epoxy.
Dan
I got a switch rod, 10'8" 6wt...The only thing not included with my kit was a hook keeper, thread and epoxy.
Dan
BigCliff
Well-known member
I'm in the process of building up a truly weird rod, using only very basic tools. (grill rotis motor for turning, cardboard box cradle, cantilevered "vise" for handle gluing) Its a 10' 4/5wt blank I got for like $15 via ebay. The handle kit is for a light switch rod, but I sanded the foregrip down to a very long half wells shape. So far I've got the spline marked, guide positions taped, done some epoxy over thread tests, and glued on the handle. I'll keep tabs on this thread and chime in with help where I can, as a almost-beginner. (Built one rod years ago at a shop)
First tip: don't do like I did when you're epoxying the reel seat into the recess of the handle and fill up the forward portion where the reel foot goes. I was scrambling to find something small enough to dip down in there to get it out before it set up. (still only got it mostly out, so the first reel mounting may be interesting)
2nd tip: denatured alcohol may be ideal, but WD40 sprayed on a paper towel works quite well to wipe errant epoxy off of an aluminum reel seat.
First tip: don't do like I did when you're epoxying the reel seat into the recess of the handle and fill up the forward portion where the reel foot goes. I was scrambling to find something small enough to dip down in there to get it out before it set up. (still only got it mostly out, so the first reel mounting may be interesting)
2nd tip: denatured alcohol may be ideal, but WD40 sprayed on a paper towel works quite well to wipe errant epoxy off of an aluminum reel seat.
Cliff,
So as not to get a head of the learning that will be going on shortly ... I'll direct this to you. As in fly tying, and judging materials (quantities of), the general rule is to take out what you think you'll need, then put about half of it back!!! Same goes for epoxy. Only put about half of what you think you'll need on the blank and you'll have far less to remove when you're done!! :thumbup: Rubbing alcohol works great in cleaning up, too!
So as not to get a head of the learning that will be going on shortly ... I'll direct this to you. As in fly tying, and judging materials (quantities of), the general rule is to take out what you think you'll need, then put about half of it back!!! Same goes for epoxy. Only put about half of what you think you'll need on the blank and you'll have far less to remove when you're done!! :thumbup: Rubbing alcohol works great in cleaning up, too!
Seconds on what your dear Auntie said. I don't know how others do it, and I guess it all depends on the blank. Working with a lot of glass blanks over the past years, I don't need to build up an large arbor. (the I.D. of reel seats usually don't match the O.D. of the blank. So you need something to 'fill' in the gap. Usually masking tape or graphite arbors) Fiberglass blanks have larger butts than graphite blanks. I've used masking tape and I've used and like cotton string the best. Saturated it and it ain't going anywhere. I put the epoxy on the first inch or so of the blank and then slowly twist the seat onto the blank. If you need a little more epoxy, (I use mini popsicle sticks) slather a little more on. A little goes a long way. Right before you get to the grip you can scrape off the excess. If you have a hooded grip, you can put a little epoxy inside it when you first put your seat on.
On graphite rods where your butt section is smaller, build up a masking tape arbor. You want a little play in it when you put your seat on so the epoxy has something to adhere to.
On graphite rods where your butt section is smaller, build up a masking tape arbor. You want a little play in it when you put your seat on so the epoxy has something to adhere to.