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BigCliff
Well-known member
My thoughts are just like troutbum's here. Easiest- buy em barbless, or smash them with pliers. Though I've actually found that something like lineman's pliers with shorter jaws work easier since there's greater force.
Frank Whiton
Most Senior Member
Hi Noworries,
I have used all the pliers shown below. I like the Tiemco and Dr. Slick style for De-Barbing trout size hooks. Any round nosed pliers that is smooth nosed will work. That is, the nose don't have any teeth on the griping surface. I can't find my favorite trout pliers but they are small and have round noses (the cross section of the nose is round). I like this for de-barbing because they are also great for tightening knots.
Tiemco De-Barb Pliers
Round Nose Pliers
Dr. Slick De-Barb Pliers
I have used all the pliers shown below. I like the Tiemco and Dr. Slick style for De-Barbing trout size hooks. Any round nosed pliers that is smooth nosed will work. That is, the nose don't have any teeth on the griping surface. I can't find my favorite trout pliers but they are small and have round noses (the cross section of the nose is round). I like this for de-barbing because they are also great for tightening knots.
Tiemco De-Barb Pliers
Round Nose Pliers
Dr. Slick De-Barb Pliers
Thanks fellows, I didn't think of just mashing the barb, must be the heat. Oh, to give ya'll an update, I've been praticing my cast. It's not as bad as I thought. I can hit in a 24" circle at 30' two or three times out of every 5 cast. I'm having a little trouble keeping the line straight when it lands. It's more like little S's all connected together. All in all I thought it wasn't to bad for my first practice. Thanks again for the info Randy
Silver Doc
Well-known member
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To keep from breaking the tip of the hook, put the tip and the barb straight into the tip of the pliers and not sideways. S.D.
BigCliff
Well-known member
The line landing in little s's will actually be a useful skill down the road, but for now, you're best off knowing what's causing it. Those squiggles are caused by the line bouncing back after an over-powered cast turns over, and the extra power puts vibrations into the line. Just back off the power a little bit, do everything else the same, and you should see the line straighten out more.
There's another possibility- you might be gripping the rod so tightly after you come forward and stop, that the rod is continuing to vibrate at the tip and put those squiggles in the line. If this is the case, try this- right after you come forward and come to a positive stop, ease your squeeze on the cork enough to where the rod tip drops a small amount and quits wiggling. Your cast will improve, and your wrist will thank you.
There's another possibility- you might be gripping the rod so tightly after you come forward and stop, that the rod is continuing to vibrate at the tip and put those squiggles in the line. If this is the case, try this- right after you come forward and come to a positive stop, ease your squeeze on the cork enough to where the rod tip drops a small amount and quits wiggling. Your cast will improve, and your wrist will thank you.
Frank Whiton
Most Senior Member
Hi All,
I think Cliff is right on with the cast being over powered.
Take a look at the videos at this site. The videos show two cast being made over 120' with a 9', 5wt rod. Note how smooth both men make their cast with no apparent application of overt power. These guys have 80' of line in the air. Poetry in motion.
I think Cliff is right on with the cast being over powered.
Take a look at the videos at this site. The videos show two cast being made over 120' with a 9', 5wt rod. Note how smooth both men make their cast with no apparent application of overt power. These guys have 80' of line in the air. Poetry in motion.
BigCliff
Well-known member
Thanks for posting those vid's Frank. They show two examples of very different casting styles, but both have that great acceleration in the middle of their cast.
Hear Ye, Hear Ye: Those wanting to double haul well- don't follow Rajeff's example of keeping your hands 4 feet apart. It works if you design your own rods and are the best in the world at generating high line speed, but doing that will cause tons of problems for the rest of us.
Hear Ye, Hear Ye: Those wanting to double haul well- don't follow Rajeff's example of keeping your hands 4 feet apart. It works if you design your own rods and are the best in the world at generating high line speed, but doing that will cause tons of problems for the rest of us.
Frank Whiton
Most Senior Member
Hi Cliff,
Some good observations there cliff. The style of Jim Gunderson would probable be the one the average caster could duplicate. I am not saying we could duplicate the distance.
There is only one Steve Rajeff. Take a look at the 2007 results. Rajeff had a enormous cast of 124' 8" in the second round. Strange that it only took 115' to win the championship. Another interesting point is the rods chosen for the 2007 competition.
2007 Equipment
(Provided by ISE and sponsors. Personal equipment is not allowed.) Rods All rods are 9-foot, 5-wt, 4-piece.
Championship Results
Some good observations there cliff. The style of Jim Gunderson would probable be the one the average caster could duplicate. I am not saying we could duplicate the distance.
There is only one Steve Rajeff. Take a look at the 2007 results. Rajeff had a enormous cast of 124' 8" in the second round. Strange that it only took 115' to win the championship. Another interesting point is the rods chosen for the 2007 competition. 2007 Equipment
(Provided by ISE and sponsors. Personal equipment is not allowed.) Rods All rods are 9-foot, 5-wt, 4-piece.
- G. Loomis Streamdance GLX XXD Max Line Speed
- Temple Fork Outfitters TiCr
Championship Results
Thanks Frank, great videos. Also it was interesting to see the line and rod choices for the competition. I liked the idea that they used a rod which could be purchased at your local supplier rather than custom built rods. It makes for a very even playing field.
Frank Whiton
Most Senior Member
Hi hardhat,
Yes, the 5wt class is so any guide or fly fisher can compete. I have always thought that the TiCr was the best rod that TFO makes and only a little more money than the Professional. If I was a beginner I think that would be my first rod. Unfortunately we don't know who was using what rod.
Yes, the 5wt class is so any guide or fly fisher can compete. I have always thought that the TiCr was the best rod that TFO makes and only a little more money than the Professional. If I was a beginner I think that would be my first rod. Unfortunately we don't know who was using what rod.
Thanks Guys, I fill better knowing I'm on the right track. My friend (retired flyfisherman) gave me the same answer. I was over powering. He said just lay the line down.... working on it.
I believe it's like buffing floors or tilling a garden. You let the machine do the work. I need to let the rod do the work. Thanks again Randy
I believe it's like buffing floors or tilling a garden. You let the machine do the work. I need to let the rod do the work. Thanks again Randy