how to porperly fight Fish with a Click and Pawl Reel?

kgrant

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I have been surfing the inter web the last couple of days trying to find out how to properly fight fish with a click reel.However i have yet to find anything of importance or noteworthy besides debates on what is the superior click reel. So i thought i would throw out this thread and see what you wonderful Flyfishers have to say about how to properly play and fight Fish with a click and pawl reel and to see if any of you know any good resources thanks for your time and the look.
 

r reese

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I will reply but it wont help much. All by feel. I usually set my click drag so I don't get backlash fighting a fish and stripping line. I then literally go by feel on runs as to when I need to or can turn the fish. I have lost fish also. 30 years all click reels never had a trout in the backing. largest fish I have caught about 6lb. fish trout only. my personal take.
 

Ard

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Hi,

Even if I wanted to tell you some special technique I couldn't. There's really not a lot of mystique to it, most of the clickers have a rim that you can apply pressure to and beyond that you just reel them in same as with a disc drag reel. I use both types ( disc & spring pawl ) for fish ranging from a small grayling up to a 50 pound salmon. Proper use of the rod in concert with the reel usually makes landing most fish pretty simple. Like most aspects of this style fishing experience is the best teacher..........

Ard
 

kgrant

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Thanks for the input Hardy and Reese. So mostly just feel and this is going to sound ignorant but when people talk about backlash and a reel what exactly is that? Also how do you properly palm a reel? I'm guessing once again the feel?

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 

comeonavs

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Backlash is when you strip line off your reel for casting. Typically you use your reeling hand and quickly strip off a bunch. Backlash is when your reel has no resistance and keeps spinning making a big wad of fly line jammed up in your reel like a birds nest.

I have had disk drag reels that didnt have a solid outward check and they would backlash so I got rid of those.

For me fighting fish on a clicker is no different, my average trout I chase are your typical 10" high mountain stream trout . A 16-17" is a trophy but a lot of time I put pressure on the line with my "trigger finger" to moderate how much the fish is on the reel so to speak. You must not clamp down 100% or you'll pop your tippet. So I moderate with the trigger finger and reel up slack with the other.


Dont let the clicker piece and "palming" the rim fool you just because its a clicker. Ive fished with disk drag reels having the drag set light, get in to a bigger fish and not wanting to adjust the drag during the fight I simply add pressure to the rim with the palm of my reeling hand, again dont go overboard and lock it down 100% with the hand or again you'll bust the fish off.
 

rangerrich99

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"Feel" is definitely a learned skill when palming a reel, clicker or not. In other words, it takes some trial-and-error to acquire the appropriate feel for palming. Here's a piece of advice that is concrete: when a fish takes line off your reel while you're palming it, remember to keep your thumb out of the way of the crank handle. That said, you'll forget at least once and discover why you want to keep your thumb bent as far away from the reel as possible.

Peace.
 

rsagebrush

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By feel, generally it is fun and challenging and in the end more rewarding.
People have been doing it a long time, making those click pawls sing, Hardy's are a roar (not the Perfect).

My drags are set really light on my disc. drag reels too and I palm those also.

If you want to see a really good 'birdsnest' take a level wind reel and give a lure a great long cast and don't feather
the spool, it will be awesome.
 

huntschool

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Frankly, I always have my palm on the rim unless I am stripping or reeling....
regardless of reel (if there is a rim)

It is a feel thing......
 

GrtLksMarlin

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I'm actually surprised that I cannot find a good image or video of palming your reel to induce drag, so I guess I'll try and explain so maybe one of the answers in this thread might hit home.

Most reels even if they have a drag system on them are set up so that the clicker or drag prevents "overrunning" the spool. As other have described that is where whether during stripping off line or a fish runs, the line suddenly stops but the spool continues to turn. The result is, since the line is not being taken off the reel it loosens and makes large loose loops within the spool. That can cause problems in various forms, so the drag or clicker is meant to keep that from happening.

The way it does is with a clicker having a spring assisted pawl engage a pawl gear.



As the pawl clicks over the teeth, it slows the spool just enough that it doesn't overrun having nothing to slow it. A disk drag does the same thing yet uses disks that pressure is applied to like the brake on a car.

In the case of a "clicker" type of drag (disk drags often set to the same degree yet can be adjusted higher), the resistance is JUST enough to slow the reel when it turns at a moderate speed, however is light enough that it does not add so much resistance that stripping line from the reel is uncomfortable, or is enough to break a light tippet.

To apply additional resistance to the line going out when say fighting a large fish there are two generally accepted ways to do so. The first less often used being to pinch the line between the reel and the first guide with your thumb and forefinger. Obviously with a large fish or extended runs it will heat up your fingertips, but it is a good way to let the fish get the line on the reel (stripped off line hanging loose), or to add additional pressure to smaller fish for brief periods.

The second method which will apply from panfish to 1,000# Blue Marlin is to "palm the reel (spool actually)."

To palm the reel, you will press your fingertips, pads of your hand or the heel of your hand to the exposed rim on the handle side of the spool. You're not going to press to the face of the spool where the handle is mounted, yet to its edge about the diameter.

Start by applying minimal pressure and then gradually increase it to where you feel is right. In some cases you'll apply just enough to insure that when the fish stops the spool doesn't overrun, yet with larger fish you might apply even more to add resistance to the fishes pull of the line off the reel.

In all cases however, you must not apply so much pressure as to break the tippet. With light tippets that can be a difficult thing to judge, the rod will aid some in reducing shock when it gives, however if you apply too much and the fish stops then jerks the line again it could cause the tippet to snap.

What you have to remember is if a fish has the power to pull off line and you don't control that line the fish can get loose. In kind if you over control it you can break that line/tippet, or in some cases even bend a hook setting the fish free.

It is however with most reels, even many modern ones how you apply drag to help you fight a fish. I can assure you however, palming a reel instead of using a freight-train drag is rewarding all on its own.

B.E.F.
 

mnguyendc

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I was just thinking about this...first time using click and pawl today and hooked a large large trout that had my rod bent like crazy, I started to palm and too much pressure, fish took off and broke my 4x Tippet t.t. Definitely a frustrating moment but one to learn from!
 

fredaevans

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I'm actually surprised that I cannot find a good image or video of palming your reel to induce drag, so I guess I'll try and explain so maybe one of the answers in this thread might hit home.

Most reels even if they have a drag system on them are set up so that the clicker or drag prevents "overrunning" the spool. As other have described that is where whether during stripping off line or a fish runs, the line suddenly stops but the spool continues to turn. The result is, since the line is not being taken off the reel it loosens and makes large loose loops within the spool. That can cause problems in various forms, so the drag or clicker is meant to keep that from happening.

The way it does is with a clicker having a spring assisted pawl engage a pawl gear.



As the pawl clicks over the teeth, it slows the spool just enough that it doesn't overrun having nothing to slow it. A disk drag does the same thing yet uses disks that pressure is applied to like the brake on a car.

In the case of a "clicker" type of drag (disk drags often set to the same degree yet can be adjusted higher), the resistance is JUST enough to slow the reel when it turns at a moderate speed, however is light enough that it does not add so much resistance that stripping line from the reel is uncomfortable, or is enough to break a light tippet.

To apply additional resistance to the line going out when say fighting a large fish there are two generally accepted ways to do so. The first less often used being to pinch the line between the reel and the first guide with your thumb and forefinger. Obviously with a large fish or extended runs it will heat up your fingertips, but it is a good way to let the fish get the line on the reel (stripped off line hanging loose), or to add additional pressure to smaller fish for brief periods.

The second method which will apply from panfish to 1,000# Blue Marlin is to "palm the reel (spool actually)."

To palm the reel, you will press your fingertips, pads of your hand or the heel of your hand to the exposed rim on the handle side of the spool. You're not going to press to the face of the spool where the handle is mounted, yet to its edge about the diameter.

Start by applying minimal pressure and then gradually increase it to where you feel is right. In some cases you'll apply just enough to insure that when the fish stops the spool doesn't overrun, yet with larger fish you might apply even more to add resistance to the fishes pull of the line off the reel.

In all cases however, you must not apply so much pressure as to break the tippet. With light tippets that can be a difficult thing to judge, the rod will aid some in reducing shock when it gives, however if you apply too much and the fish stops then jerks the line again it could cause the tippet to snap.

What you have to remember is if a fish has the power to pull off line and you don't control that line the fish can get loose. In kind if you over control it you can break that line/tippet, or in some cases even bend a hook setting the fish free.

It is however with most reels, even many modern ones how you apply drag to help you fight a fish. I can assure you however, palming a reel instead of using a freight-train drag is rewarding all on its own.

B.E.F.
I usually don't do long 'quotes' but this is an exception as fellow is 'bang on.' The other thing to keep in mind is the friction of your line going through the guides adds a lot of 'drag' to the end of your line. More guides, more friction, more 'drag' is being exerted on the leader.

As noted above, with little exception, all my reel 'drags' have a minimal setting as 'less is more' in most cases. But think about one of the oldest reels going (design wise): The Hardy's. Most of those reels have no drag at all and are used world wide for fresh water fishing; size of fish doesn't make too much difference. Well, for really large fish, a drag system might be a good idea.;)

When I do need extra drag on my Hardy's I'll just use my finger tips rather than the palm of my hand. Much more 'tactle feel' with finger tips than with palm of hand.

The one thing I like about reels with a drag system is the advertising: 'Will Stop a Truck,' etc. :rolleyes:

fae
 

kgrant

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Thank you all very much! very sound advice and exactly what I was looking for GrtLksMarlin. I really appreciate the time that went into your post. I have the best understanding I could have ever hoped for.:D rangerrich99 I bet that is going to smart and I will most likely learn that lesson the hard way lol. Any other lessons I should be aware of? Also so the Reels of Today that boast best Drag and can "stop a Truck" Is all just marketing Hype and not really necessary?
 

fishiowa

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Any other lessons I should be aware of? Also so the Reels of Today that boast best Drag and can "stop a Truck" Is all just marketing Hype and not really necessary?
Not a lesson but rather a tip. With any reel but especially a clicker, if there is an adjustment knob make sure to loosen it all the way after fishing.

As to stopping a truck; the reel may but the tippet won't. The tippet is almost always the weak link between you and the fish so keep that in mind when deciding how much pressure to apply when palming.
 

Rip Tide

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Traditionally, back when reels didn't have a palming rim on the spool, you'd grip the reel from behind and extend your middle finger into the spool frame to control backlash and slow the line.


Then once the exposed rim came along, somebody got the idea to lash a pad of leather to a reel frame post, strategically placed so that you could have a comfortable spot on which to press with your thumb


I've personally modified some of my rimless reels with an infinitely and instantly adjustable "custom drag" which works far better than you might imagine. :thumbsup:

 
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silver creek

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Traditionally, back when reels didn't have a palming rim on the spool, you'd grip the reel from behind and extend your middle finger into the spool frame to control backlash and slow the line.


Then once the exposed rim came along, somebody got the idea to lash a pad of leather to a reel frame post, strategically placed so that you could have a comfortable spot on which to press with your thumb


I've personally modified some of my rimless reels with an infinitely and instantly adjustable "custom drag" which works far better than you might imagine. :thumbsup:

I may be wrong but I think Lefty Kreh came up with that modification for the Medalists. At least he made it very popular.

https://books.google.com/books?id=n...onepage&q=Lefty kreh leather medalist&f=false
 

Flyfisher for men

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I might add: you can help yourself out a good deal with the rod and keeping pressure on the guides. I look at the drag as an emergency device for when the fish surges. You can anticipate when you need to palm the reel.

This gets me thinking about something posted here a few years ago. Some guy fishing along highway made his backcast and snagged a dump truck
going down the road.

I figure that at minimum, his reel took an instantaneous surge of several tons going 45 mph, and maybe up to 65-70. My thinking is that this would probably be more "oomph!" than even a record sailfish at top speed could generate in its initial surge. I don't think there's a reel on earth that was built to withstand a surge like I'm imagining.

His drag held up just fine and he didn't backlash. He just pointed the rod at the truck, let it take out the line and backing to the reel, and let the arbor knot snap. Reportedly, all he needed was a new line and backing.
 

el jefe

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I might add: you can help yourself out a good deal with the rod and keeping pressure on the guides. I look at the drag as an emergency device for when the fish surges. You can anticipate when you need to palm the reel.

This gets me thinking about something posted here a few years ago. Some guy fishing along highway made his backcast and snagged a dump truck
going down the road.

I figure that at minimum, his reel took an instantaneous surge of several tons going 45 mph, and maybe up to 65-70. My thinking is that this would probably be more "oomph!" than even a record sailfish at top speed could generate in its initial surge. I don't think there's a reel on earth that was built to withstand a surge like I'm imagining.

His drag held up just fine and he didn't backlash. He just pointed the rod at the truck, let it take out the line and backing to the reel, and let the arbor knot snap. Reportedly, all he needed was a new line and backing.
I think if that guy had just cranked his drag all the way up he would have just popped the tippet, and saved all that line. Perhaps he did not have time.
 

Flyfisher for men

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Perhaps he did not have time.
Probably not. World class sprinters run 25-30 mph and take 9-10 seconds to run the 100 meter dash (roughly a fly line and backing). I figure the truck's going at least another 15-20 mph over that at least.

I'm guessing he probably lost a another second or two from the shock factor.
 
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