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  1. #51

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    dean_mt,

    The OPST Commando in 300gr-325gr is 15ft long, add a MOW tip or Polyleader and you have approx. 20ft+ of rod tip to the anchor.

    Place you anchor to your side or slightly to the rear of your position.
    Elbows close to your ribs,,, slow down and make a short stroke,,,, no problem with blowing the anchor.
    Only if you extend your elbow or arms out and place the anchor in front of your position will anchor problems happen.
    Be careful when starting the forward cast,, too much acceleration too soon will mess up the cast.

    Regards.
    FK

  2. Likes eastfly66, mcnerney, fredaevans liked this post
  3. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Montana
    Posts
    4,652

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Thanks, I know that there is too much motion in my cast in general, definitely lift my arms too much. Last weekend I was very conscious of it and focused on slower, less motion, and it made a huge difference. It was after I got the stroke down a bit better and could feel the good casts, that I realized my problem on the blown anchors was probably the set.
    Last edited by dean_mt; 02-11-2017 at 12:40 AM.

  4. #53

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Quote Originally Posted by dean_mt View Post
    Lab-guy, I'll be hanging onto the Rage, from what I can tell in limited experience it is good with the rod. I am going to get a Commando as well, I'm very curious to about these heads.

    Here's a question, with a 10' head and a 12' rod how do you sustain your anchor and not blow it up? Does the weighted tip become the anchor?
    FK answered the anchor part better than I could.

    I only use the 7.5+2.5, 5+5, and medium float from RIO. The rest of the tips I use with it are OPST tips. So just to be clear, on my big trout streamer rod, I have the OPST head AND OPST tips. They are a little longer than the MOW to help prevent blown anchors and they are weighted differently to help prevent bellying (heavier at the front than at the rear). I like them, just "riffle", "run", and "bucket". Pretty simple.

    When you are ready to try it out, get in touch with Mike at OPST. He's sharp and can set you up for your particular rod. The "recommendation" charts are only so good. Tell him Jason sent you over. They need to know they are getting something out of their pros. lol.

    This spey stuff isn't rocket science. The grains, heads, and tips take some time to figure out, but the casting doesn't. I guarantee an experienced guy like you will figure it out in short order. Just forget about all the fancy names and look at it as glorified roll casting. It took me about a minute to figure out that I had been doing snap T's my whole life, just with a shorter rod.... You'll do the same and you will figure out that anchor after a few bad casts. Just keep your stroke tight and start slow to get the hang of it.
    "In Heaven the police are British, the cooks are French, the cars are German, and the women are Italian. __________________ In Hell the police are German, the cooks are British, the cars are French, and the women are Italian...."

  5. Likes dean_mt, eastfly66, mcnerney liked this post
  6. #54

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Thanks everyone this has been a Great thread, been getting a lot of info from it, helping figure out my Sage 4116. It's been too cold to do any casting, so just been collecting heads getting ready for warmer days.

    Bob

  7. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Montana
    Posts
    4,652

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Quote Originally Posted by labradorguy View Post
    FK answered the anchor part better than I could.

    I only use the 7.5+2.5, 5+5, and medium float from RIO. The rest of the tips I use with it are OPST tips. So just to be clear, on my big trout streamer rod, I have the OPST head AND OPST tips. They are a little longer than the MOW to help prevent blown anchors and they are weighted differently to help prevent bellying (heavier at the front than at the rear). I like them, just "riffle", "run", and "bucket". Pretty simple.

    When you are ready to try it out, get in touch with Mike at OPST. He's sharp and can set you up for your particular rod. The "recommendation" charts are only so good. Tell him Jason sent you over. They need to know they are getting something out of their pros. lol.

    This spey stuff isn't rocket science. The grains, heads, and tips take some time to figure out, but the casting doesn't. I guarantee an experienced guy like you will figure it out in short order. Just forget about all the fancy names and look at it as glorified roll casting. It took me about a minute to figure out that I had been doing snap T's my whole life, just with a shorter rod.... You'll do the same and you will figure out that anchor after a few bad casts. Just keep your stroke tight and start slow to get the hang of it.
    Thanks Jason, good advice. I'm going to try some different configurations tomorrow, I'm excited to dial it in. Also going to focus on the anchor placement. It's funny, when I started (which wasn't long ago) I figured anchor placement was the least important aspect of the cast -- just snap it or lay it out there and then concentrate on the cast ... now I understand my problem better.

  8. Likes mcnerney liked this post
  9. #56

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    All the technical stuffs are all covered here now just go practice, practice and practice.
    I am highly qualified to comment in this forum after receiving a Specialized High Intensive Training (S.H.I.T) at the Olde Schitt Institute of Technology (O.S.H.I.T).

  10. #57
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    White City (tad north of Medford) Oar-E-Gone
    Posts
    10,835

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Quote Originally Posted by dean_mt View Post
    Thanks, I know that there is too much motion in my cast in general, definitely lift my arms too much. Last weekend I was very conscious of it and focused on slower, less motion, and it made a huge difference. It was after I got the stroke down a bit better and could feel the good casts, that I realized my problem on the blown anchors was probably the set.
    Nailed it! Worst mistake you can do with a 2hander is try to 'force a cast.' The above are the first things I have to 'correct' with a new caster. Second 'mistake,' salesman's fault, is they purchase a rod you could land 'Namu the Whale.' (Bad pun intended.)

    Times/places for those, but few and far between.

    fae
    When wealth is lost, nothing is lost; when health is lost, something is lost; when character is lost, all is lost. - Billy Graham"

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