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  1. #51

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    dean_mt,

    The OPST Commando in 300gr-325gr is 15ft long, add a MOW tip or Polyleader and you have approx. 20ft+ of rod tip to the anchor.

    Place you anchor to your side or slightly to the rear of your position.
    Elbows close to your ribs,,, slow down and make a short stroke,,,, no problem with blowing the anchor.
    Only if you extend your elbow or arms out and place the anchor in front of your position will anchor problems happen.
    Be careful when starting the forward cast,, too much acceleration too soon will mess up the cast.

    Regards.
    FK

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Montana
    Posts
    4,735

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Thanks, I know that there is too much motion in my cast in general, definitely lift my arms too much. Last weekend I was very conscious of it and focused on slower, less motion, and it made a huge difference. It was after I got the stroke down a bit better and could feel the good casts, that I realized my problem on the blown anchors was probably the set.
    Last edited by dean_mt; 02-10-2017 at 11:40 PM.

  3. #53

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Quote Originally Posted by dean_mt View Post
    Lab-guy, I'll be hanging onto the Rage, from what I can tell in limited experience it is good with the rod. I am going to get a Commando as well, I'm very curious to about these heads.

    Here's a question, with a 10' head and a 12' rod how do you sustain your anchor and not blow it up? Does the weighted tip become the anchor?
    FK answered the anchor part better than I could.

    I only use the 7.5+2.5, 5+5, and medium float from RIO. The rest of the tips I use with it are OPST tips. So just to be clear, on my big trout streamer rod, I have the OPST head AND OPST tips. They are a little longer than the MOW to help prevent blown anchors and they are weighted differently to help prevent bellying (heavier at the front than at the rear). I like them, just "riffle", "run", and "bucket". Pretty simple.

    When you are ready to try it out, get in touch with Mike at OPST. He's sharp and can set you up for your particular rod. The "recommendation" charts are only so good. Tell him Jason sent you over. They need to know they are getting something out of their pros. lol.

    This spey stuff isn't rocket science. The grains, heads, and tips take some time to figure out, but the casting doesn't. I guarantee an experienced guy like you will figure it out in short order. Just forget about all the fancy names and look at it as glorified roll casting. It took me about a minute to figure out that I had been doing snap T's my whole life, just with a shorter rod.... You'll do the same and you will figure out that anchor after a few bad casts. Just keep your stroke tight and start slow to get the hang of it.
    "In Heaven the police are British, the cooks are French, the cars are German, and the women are Italian. __________________ In Hell the police are German, the cooks are British, the cars are French, and the women are Italian...."

  4. Likes dean_mt, eastfly66, mcnerney, fredaevans liked this post
  5. #54

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Thanks everyone this has been a Great thread, been getting a lot of info from it, helping figure out my Sage 4116. It's been too cold to do any casting, so just been collecting heads getting ready for warmer days.

    Bob

  6. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Montana
    Posts
    4,735

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Quote Originally Posted by labradorguy View Post
    FK answered the anchor part better than I could.

    I only use the 7.5+2.5, 5+5, and medium float from RIO. The rest of the tips I use with it are OPST tips. So just to be clear, on my big trout streamer rod, I have the OPST head AND OPST tips. They are a little longer than the MOW to help prevent blown anchors and they are weighted differently to help prevent bellying (heavier at the front than at the rear). I like them, just "riffle", "run", and "bucket". Pretty simple.

    When you are ready to try it out, get in touch with Mike at OPST. He's sharp and can set you up for your particular rod. The "recommendation" charts are only so good. Tell him Jason sent you over. They need to know they are getting something out of their pros. lol.

    This spey stuff isn't rocket science. The grains, heads, and tips take some time to figure out, but the casting doesn't. I guarantee an experienced guy like you will figure it out in short order. Just forget about all the fancy names and look at it as glorified roll casting. It took me about a minute to figure out that I had been doing snap T's my whole life, just with a shorter rod.... You'll do the same and you will figure out that anchor after a few bad casts. Just keep your stroke tight and start slow to get the hang of it.
    Thanks Jason, good advice. I'm going to try some different configurations tomorrow, I'm excited to dial it in. Also going to focus on the anchor placement. It's funny, when I started (which wasn't long ago) I figured anchor placement was the least important aspect of the cast -- just snap it or lay it out there and then concentrate on the cast ... now I understand my problem better.

  7. Likes mcnerney liked this post
  8. #56

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    All the technical stuffs are all covered here now just go practice, practice and practice.
    I am highly qualified to comment in this forum after receiving a Specialized High Intensive Training (S.H.I.T) at the Olde Schitt Institute of Technology (O.S.H.I.T).

  9. #57
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    White City (tad north of Medford) Oar-E-Gone
    Posts
    11,303

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Quote Originally Posted by dean_mt View Post
    Thanks, I know that there is too much motion in my cast in general, definitely lift my arms too much. Last weekend I was very conscious of it and focused on slower, less motion, and it made a huge difference. It was after I got the stroke down a bit better and could feel the good casts, that I realized my problem on the blown anchors was probably the set.
    Nailed it! Worst mistake you can do with a 2hander is try to 'force a cast.' The above are the first things I have to 'correct' with a new caster. Second 'mistake,' salesman's fault, is they purchase a rod you could land 'Namu the Whale.' (Bad pun intended.)

    Times/places for those, but few and far between.

    fae
    When wealth is lost, nothing is lost; when health is lost, something is lost; when character is lost, all is lost. - Billy Graham"

  10. Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    FKrow and all involved in this thread, many thanks for your insights - a great help to those of us in the early stages of working out the ultralight two-handed game (including UK forum regulars like me, from a part of the world where this hasn't gained much traction yet).

    Brief background notes: I've just got my hands on a Redington Hydrogen 2110-4 (recommended grain weights 175 - 200 for Scandi, 200 - 225 for Skagit) and am now trying to set it up for throwing small streamers. Redington's UK rep has very helpfully advised me to go with a Rio Trout Max 200gr 11ft head plus light 10ft MOW tips, and I'd be happy to do this - with the reservation that I know from past experience with streamers on a switch rod that I really don't like that sensation of having the head 'clanging back down through the guides' if I need to work close in, which seems to happen quite often on small UK rivers.

    Thus I'm wondering about integrated lines and suitable tapers. I've noted from the thread above that the Airflo 40+ 5wt line comes in at 243 grains on a 36ft head, with a taper of 1ft tip, 15ft front, 16ft belly and 4ft rear.

    I've also got an Airflo Super Dri Elite Trout line in WF5F, with a taper of 0.5ft, 7.5ft front, 25ft belly and 7ft rear: not sure about the grains.

    I realise that it's all a bit black magic and personal to the individual caster, but can anyone help me predict from deep experience (to save me going out and spending another small fortune on tips etc to try for myself) what tips to use etc in order make one of these lines behave like the Trout Max head that's already been recommended to me (if indeed I need to use tips at all - eg would simple Polyleaders do the trick?)

    Or should I look for a Rio Single Hand Spey line in 200gr (as already suggested above). Or just suck it up and accept that heads clanking in rings are simply part of the game?

    Many thanks for any advice...

    Theo

  11. #59

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Theo,

    I agree with you with the desire to eliminate the loops clanging through the rod tip on close distance retrieves with streamers. Many times I have seen larger fish follow up to a rod length away before turning and gliding back.

    My recommendation for your rod is the RIO Switch Chucker 225gr. with a short leader and stout tippet. You can also cast shorter sections of T-8 or other sinking leaders if desired to dredge a deeper pool.

    Regards,
    FK

  12. Thanks Theo thanked for this post
  13. #60

    Default Re: Trout Spey Rods Explained

    Quote Originally Posted by Fkrow View Post
    Lines for Trout Spey rods.

    The only line available was a Snowbee from the UK and that was offered included with the new rod package. We liked these new ultra light TH rods but were not enthused with a hard to obtain UK line as option.
    FK
    Just to let you know......

    Snowbee is now in the U.S.

    snowbee-usa.com

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