South Island, NZ

jmckinl1

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I took advantage of my current situation (2yr work assignment in Australia) to make the trip at the top of my 'Places to Fish' list - South Island, NZ.
I have been fly fishing for only a few years, but thought my skills were mostly up to the task. I have watched and read enough about NZ fishing to know how tough it can be and I went in with what I thought was pretty low expectations. Boy was I wrong initially and my expectations were not tempered enough. But, with the help of my guide, I had an amazing trip and my fly fishing game jumped a few notches.

My awesome, infinitely patient guide (Anton Donaldson - nztroutadventures.com) picked me up and we made our way to the mouth of the river. Cold (High 30s F) and clear morning with stunning scenery, snow capped mountains, crystal clear water, huge eels, and large cruising trout. I could barely contain my excitement.

We dumped our gear at the cabin and hit the mouth. Spent a bit of time warming up casting to cruising fish along the banks of the lake, but scaring them all away. Very quickly, I realized my casting game was not where it needed to be and I started to feel the pressure, which certainly affected me mentally for the rest of the day. We slowly began working our way up the river and spotted the first trout. 30-40 feet behind him, little slip on the gravel, and off he goes.....Next trout, managed to get into good position but first cast hit him right on the head with the BH fly. I gave myself a case of the YIPS and this set the tone for most of the rest of the day - stumbling, bumbling, not casting how I know I can, scaring nearly everything away.

However, by the end of the day, I managed to calm myself down and my casting, accuracy, and stealth improved greatly. Got in position to a few fish, casted well, threw every kind of the fly with only one taker, but too slow on the hook set. Spent 30-45 minutes on a fish a couple of different times. Then the rain and hail started...capping off a very frustrating day. Hiked back to the cabin, calmed myself down, and promised myself tomorrow would be a better day. Got a good nights sleep despite the other people at the cabin snoring like freight trains.

Day 2 - Woke up more positive and determined to an amazing morning, mid 30s, crisp, clear, fresh snow a couple of hundred feet above us. Warmed up a bit and then started working up the river. Scared the first fish we targeted before ever throwing a first cast......not an auspicious start. However, we came up behind the next trout actively feeding subsurface - crawled along the bank, and got into position about 15-20 feet behind him. Threw a few errant casts, luckily not close enough to spook him. Then got into the rhythm and starting throwing good casts but no interest in the flies. The fish kept actively feeding and we spent a good 30 minutes casting to him and continually changing the set up, increasing leader length, switching flies, etc.

THEN IT ALL CHANGED - Casted, flies gently hit the water 3 feet in front, guide whispers 'that is the one', the trout almost indiscernibly twitched his head (maybe an inch), guide yelled 'LIFT', tight line, huge gill flare, then zoom, reel screaming. Couple of minutes later he is in the net - a beautiful 26", 5 pound trout. Shaky knees, huge sigh of the relief, and I just lay down in the tall grass staring up at the mountains - that is what I came for and anything else is just gravy - huge weight off my shoulders.


Confidence restored and very relaxed, we continued up the river and the fun began- no spooking fish, vastly improved casting, and just having the time of my life. Hooking into nearly every other fish we came up on over the next few hours, hooked into 5 but only landing 1 - a 29", 6.25 pound stunner that we got on a dry:


Even though I lost a few, each one had that amazing thrill of setting the hook and then so much fun fighting. So hard to control and keep up with 5 to 10lb trout and they broke me off all kinds of ways - 100 yards downstream before I could blink into the fast deep current, wrapped around thick branches, leaping into the air (yes, NZ browns love to jump)

An amazing trip from start to finish and so glad I hired Anton as my guide. Even through the frustrations of the first day, I learned a lot and I appreciated just being there in that amazing setting. I am in the process of booking again for next year and I hope to make this an annual trip no matter where I live!!

Plane Ticket: US$600
Car Rental: US$50-60/day
Hotels/Lodges: US$100-200/day
Food/Beer/Wine: US$50-100/day
License: US$100
Guide: US$1300 (2days with overnight)
 

GrtLksMarlin

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Great report and thanks for adding in the costs which is the point of this section! Thanks for posting this on the forum. :thumbsup:

B.E.F.
 

boisker

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Great stuff... I'm off to SI in Feb, just under 4 weeks but a holiday with fishing.... as my wife keeps reminding me:D
Two days booked with guides, probably another 2 or 3 full days on my own and then a fair few evenings parked up riverside in the campervan.
Everyone I know who has been always says the same.. it's a step up, far fewer fish per km, but far bigger... can't wait
 
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jmckinl1

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Boisker,

I also tried a couple of days on my own. One day of inclement weather so near impossible to spot the fish. One beautiful day and had a couple of good shots at fish, but no takers. I found what they were feeding on but had nothing even close in my fly box. Threw everything I had at them!!

I would suggest picking your rivers beforehand and hitting the Hunting and Fishing Store either in Christchurch or Nelson. Your guide or people at the store can steer you to the appropriate flies for the rivers.

Cheers.
 

boisker

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I'm hoping the first day with the guide will help set me up, he'll be glad to see the back of me I've got so many questions to ask...
When I'm on my own and if I can find a rising fish, I'll stand a decent chance.... if they are nymphing then it's in the lap of the gods:D
 

flyminded

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I've only come across one fish in NZ, during 3x 1 month trips, that I would say was picky about the fly. The rest pretty much will take if you present the fly correctly - spot the fish, observe then make your move.

Now the one that was picky, finally took about the 12th different dry he was shown, he moved a few times prior and looked, followed then dropped away also, the finally ate.

You gotta be prepared to hike the river banks, leave your waders behind you will over heat.
 

boisker

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Yeah that pretty much falls inline with what I've been told. First guide I'm out with, Chris Dore, his online advice is have a few key patterns you have confidence in, covering a range of sizes and fish them well. The main issue for me will be nymphs, dries I'm fine with, but nymphs.... mmm, I know what I'm doing.... but right weight, right size, great drift... that will be a challenge:D

---------- Post added at 05:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:17 PM ----------

I'm leaving my waders UK side.... wet wading, even bought some neoprene 'socks' ready for the trip:p
 

flyminded

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Chris Dore by all accounts is top notch - also happens to be one of the few kiwi guides I've heard of that uses streamers.

You might want some poly leggings, looks strange ...but there is a reason ��
 

wjl

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Cool post and pictures. Someday:D
A couple of questions: Was the plane ticket from the states to NZ or Australia to NZ?
What weight rod were you using?

Thanks
 

jmckinl1

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Fortunately, I flew from Australia so managed not to blow the budget on a plane ticket. Friends are planning to visit NZ so I have seen some recent prices from the US east coast major hubs in the range of $1500-1600.

Gear used was a 9'6"ft 6wt, b/c I took what I had. Standard for most and guide recommended is 9ft 5 or 6wt. Would definitely stick with the 9ft.
 

flyminded

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Accomodation costs can be reduced, there are many hostel style of accomodations that could save one money.

Or a campervan rental - someplace to crash and a rental car all rolled into one, gives you the flexibility to move subject to weather - which can blow rivers out just like in the US.

And air miles are a wonderful thing if you have enough.

Local water authorities publish maps with access points for many of the watersheds, so guides are not mandatory - though with a little research a good guide can certainly help you get a few fish and help with that confidence factor.
 

huronfly

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Right on! I was just there touring NZ by campervan and snuck a day of fishing in with my wife. My guide was Dean Bell, a very fishy dude that had some amazing fish spotting skills. I ended up having a great day catching a mix of browns and bows, with the browns averaging at 5lbs or 25"! I told myself even if I caught a single fish it would be worth it, I think I ended up with 10 fish lol. It was super exhilarating and exciting watching a fish either refuse your fly or gulp it down! Glad you had fun too.
 

fishordie

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In my Opinion,

Being on either Island for the first time wanting to fish their amazing and glorious waters is best done with a high quality guide. Make sure you do your due diligence in this regard. Walking and sight fishing is part of the game as more times than not these fish are spaced really far apart while the angler/guide need some great eyes to spot these cleverly hidden fish... Though I realize several guided days can be very expensive the idea of missing any possibly great water while making such a long trip just does not compute. If you really want a day of a life time consider going for broke and take a helicopter into remote locations generally known for larger fish yet fewer per mile.. I cannot even describe reasonably the difference between some of the rivers only accessed by helicopter and some of the public water ways.. All glorious but sometimes a guy, if at all possible, needs to go for the gusto and drop a few rent checks once in his life.. Now, having a guide does not guarantee a great day on the water but it sure ups the odds by a significant amount...A great day in N.Z. just cannot be fully explained. On the other hand, I get it if money is super tight.

Jamie
 

flyminded

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I'll second the back country heli trip if you can spring for it .....did it once and will never forget it. But it ain't cheap that's for sure.

DIY is definitely do able, but you got to do the research and be prepared to hike and spend some nights in back country huts if you want to really explore the opportunities on a budget.

You might not see as many fish as a guide, but they are big enough not to miss them all ?
 

welshmike1

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I've only come across one fish in NZ, during 3x 1 month trips, that I would say was picky about the fly. The rest pretty much will take if you present the fly correctly - spot the fish, observe then make your move.

Now the one that was picky, finally took about the 12th different dry he was shown, he moved a few times prior and looked, followed then dropped away also, the finally ate.

You gotta be prepared to hike the river banks, leave your waders behind you will over heat.
Hi
Fished NZ 3 times a year for the last 8 years. Mostly South Island on the Mataura and tri. If you are planning a trip I have books and maps that would greatly assist.bs. Base yourself in Gore for the lower section and Garston for the upper and the Oreti. Unfortunately have to report a drastic decline in fish since the didymo invasion. From being my favourite country to fish I am now having to reassess my attitudes. My NZ friends now tell me that you are better off going to the Taupo area in North Island, not to fish the lake but the Tongariro or the Rangatiki. There are numerous other smaller rivers well worth fishing. Motueka out of Nelson has the highest number of fish per Klm, and is easy fishing.
If its your first visit a guide is essential to give you the general picture.
 
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Isolation Outfitters

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If anyone is planning their dream trip to NZ and working off threads like this for information, I hope this helps.

First up, we've had a few recent changes on some rivers to cope with the increasing numbers of anglers on our pressure-sensitive South Island wilderness streams. The Clinton in Fiordland for instance now operates on a bookable beat system. Some more popular wilderness streams throughout the country require a backcountry endorsement on your annual license. Your guide (a must for first-time visitors) will be about to help. Or message me - I'm more than happy to point you to the right links.

The backcountry rivers in the top of the South Island are frequently shown on YouTube, but consistently accessing the right sections really does require hundreds of hours of exploration. Access sometimes changes hands so do your planning and have a backup river plan.

Even with the current 2020 ban on incoming international travellers due to Covid-19, the top South Island fisheries are not really seeing a reduction in pressure, rather local anglers are taking the opportunity to travel to waters they've neglected in recent years. Some rivers in North Canterbury and the Lewis Pass are already seeing ridiculous angler volumes during the weekends, even though the season is barely four weeks old.

Good weather since the 2019 mouse year (beech mast year) has meant fish are still in spectacular condition. I guess you're seeing that via the steady stream of trophies and 'grip & grins' on Instagram! This is further drawing out the locals, particularly on the 'name' rivers, clearly identifiable from the social media images. It's not sustainable.

So, what to do. Well, your guide will be able to get you onto some more remote water. Definitely do an overnighter to get away from the road-accessible water. And stump for a helicopter if you are time limited. Bring a powerful 9' or 9'6" #5/#6wt, a decent, clean, weight forward floating line that can punch into the wind, and practice your casting so you can gently and accurately land a variety of 30-50' casts within a one foot circle.

Bring tungsten bead & well-weighted nymphs e.g. Cadillac, Pheasant Tail and Hare & Cooper, sizes #12 to #18, and a bunch of good indicator dry flies, plus some #12 - #16 Adams and other mayfly & emerger imitations. If coming after Christmas, bring a handful of cicada imitations.

Pack your (Simms Flyweight maybe) boots and cleats. You'll be doing plenty of walking. Bring a walking pole if nervous about river crossings, polyprop leggings or fast-drying pants, dull/camo warm clothing, a really good raincoat! You can buy sandfly repellent and suncream from any NZ pharmacy upon arrival. Get good stuff - this is critical. If you work with a good kiwi outfitter, they can sort a locally made custom rod (Epic/CTS) as backup to your own favorite, plus waders, boots, campaign gear, etc before you arrive if you prefer.

Remember our backcountry rivers can flash-flood easily so if you're heading in without a guide, take a emergency beacon and preferably a sat phone too (you can hire them both for short trips), and depending on your location, if rain looks close or starts, be aware of how to get out of the gorge in minutes. It might be raining heavily further upstream and if the river starts to discolor, get up and out to higher ground just to be safe.

Packrafting should only be done in pairs (or more) and is a great way to cover a bit of land. If you want a fishing buddy to packraft with, I'm often around and keen to get into the backcountry.

Feel free to DM me, if any questions. Happy to help out.
 
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