My baptism in the Katmai's wilderness waters didn't take long.Tim Rawson, our guide, had already hooked, landed and released three good rainbows along the shoreline of Nonvianuk Lake, in our first hour of fishing, but my 40-foot casts with a streamer fly had gone hitless."Wade out a bit further," he said, and when my next cautious step landed on the mossy rounded rocks, my footing was gone and I ...

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