"Crack" noise on either forward or backcast

[Fly Guyusa]

When the line sounds like a bull whip, is this because line hasn't straightened sufficiently before recriprocal cast begins? Is too much power applied? Your help please....

 

[Curtis]

I have noticed this when I apply an inordinate amount of speed to the forward cast compared with the back cast. This throws the timing off and the line does not get straightened out before forward cast begins. This makes the line that is still in the back cast straighten out and begin it's forward cast too quickly thus making it very similar to a whip. You will find this is a great way to get rid of a few flies too.

 

[ffjones]

i was doing this, this afternoon, i was frustrated and overpowering the cast, it does get rid of flies rather quickly. hell, i didn't know where they were disappearing to, i guess i will have to remember patience next time i go out.

 

[dougm]

Curtis is right on ... Whenever you apply to much force to quickly during either the back or forward cast, you can easily play the old game of crack the whip or pop the towel... Usually, it's the transition from the back to forward cast that gives fly fishers the greatest problem.

Make it easy on yourself and watch the backcast ... and at the transition, think "smooooooth" saving the so-called power stroke for the last. As you begin the forward cast, allow your rod hand to lead the rod until the time for speed-up and stop.

Doug

 

[Curtis]

Also, remember that the rod is designed to cast. It uses it's own energy to cast the line. Your job is only to facilitate it being unleashed and move it into position. Feel the rod load and tell you when it is ready.

 

[PhilipRispin]

When a Bull Whip makes that cracking noise it's because the "popper" on the end of the whip is actually moving at the speed of sound. What you hear is actually a small sonic boom. You can cause the same thing to happen to the leader, tippet and of course the fly. I have broken hooks, tippets and frayed leaders being impatient about getting the forward cast going. I have found that a number of faults can be corrected by simply allowing enough time for the back cast to finish before beginning the forward stroke.

Phil R.

 

[BigCliff]

Mr. Rispin is absolutely right about the sonic boom. We can't expect that 5x that we play gingerly with our wispy 4wts to survive such violence either.

Its also possible that wind is playing a part in the creation of this cracking noise. If the wind is behind you and you are trying to throw a long but underpowered and mis-timed backcast into the wind, its very possible that it won't straighten out before you begin the forward cast. This situation is especially likely in coastal conditions or with Rocky Mountain winds and light rods. I find that it helps to keep the false casts shorter, and to haul hard and shoot high on the delivery of the cast to achieve the distance needed. This will be easier on your arm and shoulder too.

 

[Fly Guyusa]

Doug, some help here! The forward cast must be started slightly before the backcast straightens, right?

 

[PhilipRispin]

Hi Folks,

My comment has to do with the timing of the forward cast. Mr. Damico is right in that if we wait for the back cast to straighten out completely the line, due to the influence of gravity, is probably in the water, trees, junk behind us. The problem is that most of us don't wait long enough before beginning the forward stroke. It is very unusual to find someone who waits too long in the back cast the mistake is usually not waiting long enough.

Phil R.

 

[dougm]

Hi Pat,

Sorry I couldn't get back sooner... The answer is yes. The transition begins slightly before the line straightens and it begins slowly by moving the rod hand back toward the body from the extend position at the end of the backcast.

In practice, when the brain tells the arm "o.k. do it to it," by the time the arm begins to respond, the line will have fully straightened ... It's sort of like the lead you and I would give a fast moving dove when wing-shooting.

I need to emphasize that the rod hand plays no part in the transition until the arm has been withdrawn back into the side of the body -- the point where the rod hand begins the turnover into the forward cast. At the beginning of the transition, the rod hand should remain in the same position that ended the backcast.

The most frequent errors that I see is (1) the failure to pull the arm back toward the body and, instead, using the rod hand far to early in the forward casting stroke; and (2) powering into the forward cast with far too much speed.

 

[Fly Guyusa]

Thanks Doug! To make things a little more interesting, shouldn't the forward and backcast be mirror images of one another when false casting? Do we have less problems with the forward cast because we are watching it? I only began to watch my backcast a year or so ago, after 40 plus years of fly fishing. A tape by George Roberts really emphasizes the point that if you don't make a good backcast, a good forward cast will never happen. That was also when I took my first casting lesson. Had some poor muscle memory and bad habits to correct!

 

[dougm]

Pat,

No question in my mind that the backcast is more important than the forward cast. I weight it 65 and the forward cast 35. By learning to watch the backcast I have no doubt that your timing has smoothed and you now adjust to subtle things on the backcast that you were not formerly aware of -- the effect of a gusty breeze being but one. The forward cast, on the of the other hand, we all watch. The trouble is when we finally see the forward cast, it's too late to correct mistakes.

In truth, many of my final casts are made backhanded from the backcast; some of my longest, too. It's a useful technique that I would suggest you practice. It make changing direction a snap!

The three principal problems I encounter in teaching the cast are: (1) Watching the backcast, (2) Keeping the rod tip low to avoid slack, and (3) maintaining direct contact with the fly. (The exception being high stick nymphing.)

As for whether or not the two parts of the cast should be mirror images of each other, I can only say that mine are not! In fact, my back and forward casts usually follow different tracks. I attribute the mirror image business to the influence of the Ancient Fish Gods on the Knot Tiers, the same folks who would lead people to believe that to be a fly fisher, you must master the 1,651 knots they write books about.

Of course, you can make the cast that way folks; in fact, the cast can be made any one of a number of ways. Years ago there was a article that discussed fly casting in ovals -- sure enough, the technique works.

Doug

 

[Troutlassie124]

Bravo to you all for something I had been trying to figure out.
I can't wait to try out your suggestions.
Anyone know where I can get new netting for my old LL Bean
wooden net? It seems a mouse family found it and turned it
into shredded net. Are they available off the shelf somewhere?:icon_eek:

 

[Joni]

Fishing Bamboo and super fines a lot along with tip flex, My answer is YES let the line straighten completely behind you (should even feel a slight tug on the rod tip) before you start your forward cast. In other woeds "wait for it....."
The crack sound could also be the tippet hitting something on a back cast (not stopping arm at the 2:00 possition or breaking wrist)