casting techniques

blueduds

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Hello,

I am hoping that some of you can give me some tips and answer my question.

Well today I was fishing a lake, on the shore, and I was mainly using a wooly bugged. Anyways I know that you cast out and strip... strip until your ready to cast again. Well after I striped all the line, I would have to do several false cast or roll casts to get the same amount of line out as before. Are there any tips on how to get all that line out with not as many false casts?

I also notice after fishing for a while, when I would shoot line, my line would get sort of caught on my fingers, due to the friction on wet hand. Does anyone else gets this? And are there anyways to eliminate this?

Thank you and happy fishing.
 

Ard

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Hi,

If you are stripping line in until you are really close to the line / leader connection...........Try this; shake the rod tip and allow the weight of the line to pull a fair quantity of line back out through the guides and tip top. Once you have a nice bunch of it on the water execute a roll cast but stop the rod tip high and be prepared to back cast. You may still need at least one false cast depending on the distance you are fishing but this should help with the problem. As for the line getting caught when you try to shoot; try holding the line in large loose coils and either let one at a time go on false casts or drop the bunch when you shoot the works.

Ard
 

blueduds

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thanks ARD for the response.

I was sometimes doing that whiggle action to get more line out, but I didnt like doing it because I felt it caused too much 'action' on the water and scared the fish away.

Also one of the things I would do is that when I would start my rollcast going back, I would have my rod tip low and have the water drag line out and then lift it up into the rollcast starting point. Well I was wondering if this is bad because I heard is causes your fly line to twist.

Lastly I heard many people rarely false cast, do you guys believe in this?

Thanks
 

Ard

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The twisting the fly line is a new one on me, when I fish with dry flies I do enough false casting to keep the fly dry. If fishing wet flies I keep the false cast to a minimum.

You know, if you have enough room for a back cast I often get my distance squared away by casting somewhere to the right or left of where I want to place the fly. When doing this I can thrash around as much as needed and when there is enough line out to hit my mark I then shift the direction on the last set of back & forward cast. This keeps the whole process away from where you either know or believe the fish are at. Where there is a will there's a way....................
 

jpbfly

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quote:You know, if you have enough room for a back cast I often get my distance squared away by casting somewhere to the right or left of where I want to place the fly. When doing this I can thrash around as much as needed and when there is enough line out to hit my mark I then shift the direction on the last set of back & forward cast. This keeps the whole process away from where you either know or believe the fish are at. Where there is a will there's a way....................
That's a great advice....you can also use Ard's technique when you have no room for a back cast to get enough line out for a rollcast;)
 
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silver creek

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thanks ARD for the response.


Also one of the things I would do is that when I would start my rollcast going back, I would have my rod tip low and have the water drag line out and then lift it up into the rollcast starting point. Well I was wondering if this is bad because I heard is causes your fly line to twist.

Thanks
The twisting the fly line is a new one on me, when I fish with dry flies I do enough false casting to keep the fly dry. If fishing wet flies I keep the false cast to a minimum.
Any repeated OVAL casting motion like a Belgian wind cast will cause a line twist.

"Put quite simply this cast is a side cast in the back cast, followed by an overhead cast in the forward….. The disadvantage of this cast is that it throws a half twist in the line every cast. Half twists add up!"

The Belgian Cast

So if you roll cast by bringing the line back low and to the side and then cast forward overhead, I think it will twist. Same motion, same result.

If you bring the line back as in a standard roll cast with the rod overhead and then cast overhead, I think the line won't twist.


Hello,


Well today I was fishing a lake, on the shore, and I was mainly using a wooly bugged. Anyways I know that you cast out and strip... strip until your ready to cast again. Well after I striped all the line, I would have to do several false cast or roll casts to get the same amount of line out as before. Are there any tips on how to get all that line out with not as many false casts?
Have you ever tried shooting line on the back cast as well as the forward cast?

Most folks only shoot line on the forward cast, but if you learn to shoot line on both, you cut down on the number of false casts.
 
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blueduds

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Silver Creek:

I have tried that but i always screw that up, always on the back cast, but i can always shoot line on the forward cast. However, most of the time when I shoot line my line near my feet always finds something to wrap around. That is so annoying. You have a great cast and when you shoot it stops after 5 feet of line is out because it got stuck on your foot or a twig.

I also have tried double hauling but I need more practice on it. My only problem with double hauling is my backcast. When I do my backcast, I always end up with a bunch of slack between my hand and the first ring. And yes i know you should bring your hand up but on rare occasions I get it and I know that feeling of the line pulling behind you. So im thinking maybe its because I am hauling to early on my back cast.

thanks
 

wjc

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It sounds like a couple of problems. One, if the line isn't shooting because your hands are wet, you likely don't have enough line speed. If you have slack between line hand and stripping guide on the backcast, again that is likely a line speed issure.

Or, it could simply be that you haven't yet got enough line mass out of the tip yet to shoot line.

Depending on what kind of fishing you are doing, if you work the area close to you first, then gradually increase your range, there may be no reason to strip the line in so far on successive casts. If the previous x number of short casts produced no fish, there is little reason to continue stripping though that area.

Then you can simply increase your range so that you can pick up enough line after stripping through the area you're fishing to make whatever change of direction is needed and shoot it back out again.

If you are fishing big water, a stripping basket may help you with the line fouling problem also.

Still-water fishing of shorelines from a canoe or boat is a great way to develop a good feel for how much line you can comfortably pick up, re-direct and then lay down without false casting. Then you don't need to worry about obstacles behind you and can get some solid practice/experience with less frustration.

As Silver said, learning to shoot into the backcast will help enormously in keeping you fly in the water more of the time. And as Ard said, false casting to dry off flies is best done well away from where you intend to present and drift the fly.

Cheers,
Jim
 

silver creek

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I think the best thing you could do is to learn a proper double haul. Here a couple of videos to get you started.

If I can give you suggestion, do not try long line pulls at first. The longer the haul, the more line you have to feed back into the cast to get ready for the next haul. So start with short line pulls to get the timing of the haul done, then extend the hauls.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8idd4kgXY4]Ask a Fly-Fishing Instructor VII: The Double Haul - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcE-9WPuZ04]Learn the Double Haul Cast with Mel Krieger - YouTube[/ame]

Joan Wulff: The Double Haul | MidCurrent
 
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