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  1. #11

    Default Re: Always throw a hook or tuck cast

    Remember that I said the Corkscrew Curve was better way, but better in what way? Well, it can be done out to 80+ feet because it is not a side arm cast. It is done overhead and the line unfolds itself well above the ground and so it an travel further before gravity pulls the line down. Not that there would ever be a need for that, but it a cool cast to see.

    Note that the video labels it a corkscrew curve mend rather than a corkscrew curve cast. It is a mend because the corkscrew repositioning of the line in the air is done after the stop.

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  2. #12

    Default Re: Always throw a hook or tuck cast

    It sounds as if you have decent loop formation or the leader wouldn't kick very much. It's an easy fix. As you false cast 30' or so deliberately try to underpower the forward cast so that it doesn't turn over and lands in an underpowered layout. I have had grown men nearly weeping in frustration as the leader turns over time and time again because as you back the power off the loop tightens, the more dynamic the loop the less effort is needed to achieve turnover. It's a vicious circle. I use overpowering/underpowering as a regular warm up to casting practice.


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    south florida

    Default Re: Always throw a hook or tuck cast

    Quote Originally Posted by Larry
    I was hoping you would see this post and offer some advice
    Hi Larry,

    I missed your post somehow. I've never seen the corkscrew cast live, and can't watch the video because quicktime messes up my entire computer.

    Almost the only time I do any curve casts anymore is when bass fishing with huge cork poppers. The canal I fish has an almost continuous line of weeds and lilly pads out a ways from the sawgrass with a few breaks in it. It also has some gigantic largemouths that lie inside of it in the shade just before happy hour starts.

    When possible, (ie. fishing alone from my little tin boat) I use a sidearm, overpowered, double hauled cast with a larger than "normal" loop, with a pull back a shoot and followed by a big aerial mend. Playing with the "pullback" - the timing, duration, length, force etc, can result in some pretty major hooks at pretty substantial distances with poppers. You also continue to shoot line after the pullback while stretching out the aerial mend.

    When casting vertical with these poppers, I break the "180 degree" rule from the vantage point of being on top lookin down (as it appears from the Jason diagram that he also does during the corkscrew cast) . Then after the release, I dip the rod tip to avoid a disasterous crash and continue back upwards and out with an aerial mend in the direction of the opening in the weed line.

    So it would basically be an underpowered cast and aerial mend with a pretty radical change in "tracking" during the cast itself.

    Next time I go bass fishing I will try to pay attention as to exactly what I am doing, and wear my helmet cam. But this is casting with cork poppers considerably bigger in diameter than a wine cork with considerable weight, so the direction they are going at the beginning half of the forward cast is hard to get them to deviate from.

    One thing to remember when practicing these casts is that the hook may not be coming from where you think it is, so "tip awareness" is as important as crushed barbs, thick hats and glasses.

    PS: Hopefully, Silver, Jackster and Fluffchucker will have some more information for you when it comes to curve techniques with more "normal" flies and cold water situations.

    Last edited by wjc; 12-03-2012 at 11:02 AM. Cheers, Jim

  4. #14

    Default Re: Always throw a hook or tuck cast

    Quote Originally Posted by turbineblade View Post
    Hey, I notice that though my casting is leaps and bounds better now than when I started, I tend to throw casts such that the line runs out of "leash" and whips at the end. With a straight overhead, I throw the tuck cast. With a side cast, it curves to the left. Sometimes it does it more than others, but it seems to be there quite a bit.

    What do I do to correct this? Let more line out? Cast more gently or something? Stick with it and learn to throw more to the right on my side casts ..?

    Granted that this doesn't affect my fishing too badly because I catch fish once I get my flies into the water...but it's annoying and I know I could be doing better on my casts.

    Actually, my casting is the most challenging thing with fly fishing having come into this from pretty heavy ultralight spin fishing (mostly bluegill). I feel like I can "fish" with my flies/lures, but the casting was tough to learn!!

    I was having the same problem this week while casting with my 8wt rod, though I was also throwing tailing loops into the mix. I found that I really had to dial back on the amount of power I was using on the front cast. By doing that and allowing to rod to do more of the work, I got rid of the tailing loops and the whipping.

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