FiberGlass Rod Casting

[mickalo]

Hello All,

been awhile since I've here allot stuff going on but things are getting back to normal again ... well as normal as they can be.

Anywho ... I just picked up new fiberglass rod 7' 5w and spooled it with a rio DT5f line. I realize these are much slower rod and casting them is a bit different then my other rods. I've been using a 5ft furled leader with either a 3x or 4x tippet using fiies from #12-8 nymphs and small streamers. But seem to be having a problem getting my backcast to roll out smoothly maybe going into my foward cast too soon i think.

Was hoping maybe to get some tips on casting these fiberglass rods to improve my casting. I can usually get about a 30ft cast fairly accurately but it doesn't seem to a "good" cast. From what I can see my loops are getting to wide not really tight like they should be.

Any info or tips would be appreciated,

thanks,

 

[Rip Tide]

...seem to be having a problem getting my backcast to roll out smoothly maybe going into my foward cast too soon i think.

Was hoping maybe to get some tips on casting these fiberglass rods to improve my casting. I can usually get about a 30ft cast fairly accurately but it doesn't seem to a "good" cast. From what I can see my loops are getting to wide not really tight like they should be.

Any info or tips would be appreciated,

That sounds like your main issue right there.

Slower action rod = wider loops

Don't push it trying to get tight loops 'cuz that's not what that rod does
One of my glass rods is so slow, you could check your phone during the back cast
There's no urgency . It's all very relaxed.
You should be able to feel "the tug" on your backcast but maybe you should watch it unfurl just to get a better handle on the speed.

 

[plecain]

You should be able to feel "the tug" on your backcast but maybe you should watch it unfurl just to get a better handle on the speed.

Took the words right out of my mouth.

 

[kentuckysteve]

This is the same problem i ran into.I was used to a faster rod.
Had to slow my cast down and change my timing a little.
I finally got it down and can cast the glass better than my other rods.

 

[mickalo]

thanks guys great advise. I realize I'll need to slow down my casts and get a better feel for the flex in the rod especially my back cast. Gonna do some lawn casting this weekend and try and watch my backcast that seems to be my problems not waiting for the line to straighten out before going into the forward cast. these glass rods really flex allot gotta get use to that

 

[brus903]

That sounds like your main issue right there.

Slower action rod = wider loops

Don't push it trying to get tight loops 'cuz that's not what that rod does
One of my glass rods is so slow, you could check your phone during the back cast
There's no urgency . It's all very relaxed.
You should be able to feel "the tug" on your backcast but maybe you should watch it unfurl just to get a better handle on the speed.

I'm new to fly fishing, coming from baitcasting/spinning where I have much more experience and better understanding of the needs/requirements of the tackle and line. I've bought several different fly rods already in anticipation of enjoying this hobby/sport. I have one fast action 4 piece 9'0 5wt, one moderate-fast 4 piece 9'0 8wt, and 2 different fiberglass one piece 6'0 3wt and 7'3 5wt. In addition, I've purchased matching reels for each wt class rod and generic/private label WF fly line.

So, I've begun my career in fly fishing with the fiberglass. I'm having the same problem to a certain degree as OP. I think with my 6'0 3wt glass I maybe am able to cast about 22ft (including 6ft, 20lb>3ft, 10lb>3ft, 8lb mono leaders).

1.) Are you saying that glass rods aren't for distance casting? If not, how far should one be able to cast with a 6'0 3wt glass rod and generic WF fly line w/ home made leaders?

2.) Should I start learning on one of my other rods first rather than my fiberglass rods? I chose to use and begin learning on my fiberglass because where I fish off the banks of a lake there are brush and trees and things behind me and to clear some space between me and the things behind I have to step into the water to cast.

3.) I like the idea of a 1 piece rod vs multiple piece set since I came from baitcasting and always prefered one piece rods ever since I flung my rod so hard as a child the 2nd piece flew off the ferrule and landed in the water in front of me. (Embarrassing by the way don't care how old you are.)

4.) Like I said I'm able to cast about 22 ft (if my measurements are correct) on my small glass rod and was able to catch a little perch and another bigger perch/sunfish just missed my fly on my next cast. Should I start using my 5wt glass instead and see how far it goes? Not the best fly caster by the way almost poked my eye(s) out with the fly coming straight at me more than a few times. Although, I think I'm getting the timing down since I didn't hear the bullwhip crack behind me but a few times and when I did, I adjusted my timing for it.

Thanks, any advice is appreciated.

brus

 

[toothybugs]

Depending on the type of glass used in the rod, they can be very, very whippy (old school wet fly rods) or pretty darn fast. I had a 6'6" "2 weight" that I threw a WF5 with to be able to use it at fishing distances (within 40 feet of me). I think it was a Cabelas CGR but I'm not 100% sure, but anyway.

A 6ft #3 is probably intended for no more than 30-40 feet of line, ideally targeting around 20 feet of line.

I would consider that little stick more of a specialty rod and if I were instructing you, would either ask you to purchase or use a rod I brought - and that would be something 8-9 feet long, 4-7wt, in preferably a medium to medium fast action. No stumps, and nothing willowy. Long rods also help you roll cast better, which might be to your benefit if you fish around obstructions.

Multi piece rods are fine, just be sure to set your ferrules well. Clean them, lubricate them a little, and they stick together very, very well. I've never seen a clean ferrule come apart. Dirty ones, all the time because the amount of contact is dramatically reduced relative to that of a clean one.

Where are you located? If you're around Chicago, I'd be happy to give you some pointers.

 

[zjory]

I have a 7.5ft 3wt glass rod. I tend to take a beer out when I fish with it as I have time to take a drink during every backcast.

 

[Hirdy]

I've got a lot of 'glass rods, from 4wt through to 11wt, plus a 5wt DH rod. I really like the way fish fight on them and they are tough. Some even cast really well.

I've always wondered what people were talking about when they say "ya need to slow the cast down with 'glass rods." It defies physics because we still need to get the line speed up to a given value to reach the target, regardless of the material of the rod. I really rip my casts with the glass rods, so I could not quite fathom it.

Last night, I worked it out while reading this thread. (Yeah, I can be a bit slow sometimes ... )

'Glass rods bend more, so the casting arc must be wider to achieve the required straight line tip path. A longer tip path is the outcome of the wider arc. That, I already knew.

If the launch speed must be the same to reach the same target, the rate of acceleration is lower, even though the same line speed is achieved as the loop forms. The analogy is a couple of cars jumping a canyon: If the required launch speed is 80, the high powered car can achieve it with a 200m run-up but a low powered car needs 400m to reach the speed.

Slower acceleration needs a longer casting arc, or more correctly in this case, the longer casting arc required by a bendy rod dictates a lower rate of acceleration or we'll tail. That feels like we're "slowing" the cast down, even though the line needs to hit the same speed before launch.

In that sense, yes, a 'glass rod requires a slower casting style.

In truth though, there is a certain point in the cast where we can really hit the acceleration as much as we want without causing a tail. That's when the rod is fully bent during rotation and adding more oomph won't bend it enough to "damage" the cast. The trick is reaching that point with enough juice left in the tank to add distance to the cast.

Cheers,
Graeme

 

[silver creek]

Hello All,

been awhile since I've here allot stuff going on but things are getting back to normal again ... well as normal as they can be.

Anywho ... I just picked up new fiberglass rod 7' 5w and spooled it with a rio DT5f line. I realize these are much slower rod and casting them is a bit different then my other rods. I've been using a 5ft furled leader with either a 3x or 4x tippet using fiies from #12-8 nymphs and small streamers. But seem to be having a problem getting my backcast to roll out smoothly maybe going into my foward cast too soon i think.

Was hoping maybe to get some tips on casting these fiberglass rods to improve my casting. I can usually get about a 30ft cast fairly accurately but it doesn't seem to a "good" cast. From what I can see my loops are getting to wide not really tight like they should be.

Any info or tips would be appreciated,

thanks,

For the same distance, a slower action fly rod requires a slower rate of acceleration ---> a longer rod stroke. After the rod stop, the fiberglass rod will take longer to straighten because it is less stiff (slower rate of recovery) and the distance the tip must move to unbend is longer ---> a longer delay before the next rod stroke.

So you need to relearn rod stroke path, stroke speed, and timing between rod strokes.

Go back to basics as if you were first learning to cast. I suggest you use the sidearm cast so you can watch both the backcast and the forward cast. Start with short casts and work longer.

Use Lefty Kreh's method of laying out casting lanes and work at making tight loops staying in the lanes for both forward and backcasts. Then work on lengthening the casts. Then go back to overhead casts once you build muscle memory for the timing and stroke length.

 

[brus903]

Where are you located? If you're around Chicago, I'd be happy to give you some pointers.

Thanks toothybugs, unfortunately I'm in north Texas. Otherwise I could use all the help I could get.

By the by, I just got back from Cabela's and apparently they are phasing out most of their fly rod lines. I understand they are only going to carry the Prime and CGR series from all their original fly rod lines moving forward with the merger with Basspro. Basspro will also be making fly rods for them moving forward just don't know the name or type. So, Cabela's will have other lines out but the only one staying prior to the merger are the fiberglass series.

So, if anyone is near a Cabela's they are going to continue to mark down/clearance price their own fly rods till gone.

Now, I don't know how accurate this information is, a sales clerk in the fly department was just telling me this as we were making small talk. This, I think, only applies to their Cabela's branded fly rods. They will continue to carry name brand fly rods but not as many of their own labels.

If they continue to bring the prices down I plan to stock up some more. Luck all.

 

[pnc]

Excellent suggestion from , Silver. Laying line ln grass you learn to feel loading of rod. And stopping tip at correct time.
For you that have flies coming at you or are struggling with casting. Punch Lefty Kreh , into search engine. Watch his 4 part casting video. Each short snd easy to understand. You won't regret doing so. Length of cast could be doubled fast.
Saw 20' mentioned. Not enough line out ! Probably not much load on rod. Immediate impression.....
Have several 3w's. Two opposite ends of the spectrum are a graphite rod & a glass one. The graphite I built from a 200 dollar blank. It is sloooooooooow. This particular rod can lay out 50' of line. But gets eratic fast nearing it. 40' is about max with an acceptable amount of accuracy. 25-35' it can be pin point.
Prior posts mention built in capabilities of rods. All rods have such. Somd cast better & some fight fish better also. The second rod a $25.- Eagle Claw featherlight. I have fun with. Not as accurate to 35'. 40-60' more accurate. 65-70' is about max for any accuracy.
Both rods are 6'6".
Make & rod model could get responses as to capabilities of rod. Might get responses faster in glass rod section.

...... pc

 

[karstopo]

I really like this thread and all the great tips and knowledge shared. I fish both fast graphite rods and much slower action fiberglass ones. I really like how the slower fiberglass, I have several CGRs, rods stay loaded longer. I feel like that gives me more time to make last moment adjustments to the cast. In other words, I believe the time window of my influence or nuance on the cast is longer with a slower action rod.

I cast pretty much daily and much of it is sidearm. The sidearm part is mostly about the tree canopy, but sidearm casting does let me see my loops well. Some days, I'm very intentional about watching my loops and playing around with the length of my casting arc and when and how much I accelerate. One thing I've noticed is that my arm, shoulder, body isn't exactly the same every day. Some days, I have a more lively arm. I might tend to over accelerate and get that tailing loop that Graeme mentioned. The same thing happens sometimes when I see a fish to cast to. I get a little burst of adrenaline and that causes me to put too much acceleration at the wrong time and the fly ends up intersecting the fly line. I not sure any of us have the same liveliness each and every day and especially as we get older. Some days, my casting is just off, I struggle to control the direction of the rod tip.

But these threads just encourage me even more to cast daily and experiment. Maybe deliberately throw some tailing loops just to know exactly how that feels in term of acceleration. Golfers go to the range and work on fades or draws, imparting a little side spin to shape a shot. On the surface, golf and fly casting seem similar. Both are interested in hitting targets at different ranges, in a variety of conditions, and some shots are more challenging than others.

Getting better at hitting my shots just makes fishing more fun. If I'm structure fishing, having better control means getting fly pattern exactly where it needs to be and not on the structure risking entanglement or too far away to be effective. If I'm sight fishing, I want to be able to put the fly right where I think it needs to be. It would be nice to be so dialed into the physics of the rod, any rod, and line and be able to direct the fly where you want it to go in whatever conditions almost every time you wanted.