Problems with 9 wt setup

drjay9051

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Getting better with my fresh water 6 wt so i decided to buy a 9 wt for local salt water. it's a Redington Predator coupled to an Orvis Hydros. line is Wulff salt water WF.

I simply cannot get the line out more than say 10-15 ft. it seems to just fall in a pile at my feet.

Is the technique different for a heavier setup?

At first I thought heavier setup so i need a heavier fly but clearly this is not the case as a heavier 9 wt line should in theory take a fly further than a 6 wt line

In my case it seems backward.

Do I need to slow down my backcast as the rod is less "supple"?

I am lost here.

Cannot post video at this time.

Anybody ?
 

mcnerney

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With a heavier fly rod it is very difficult to make casts with so little fly line out of the guides. Try shaking out 20-3o ft from your top guide and then try casting and see if that works.
 

bigjim5589

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I agree with Larry, with so little amount of line, you're not loading the rod enough to get a decent cast. You should see there's a difference in the timing compared to the lighter rod, and the extra weight of the line will be noticeable, once you get the rod loaded. The fly size shouldn't affect the cast, unless you've gone to a fly that's huge and has a lot of air resistance is or extremely heavy. Otherwise, the 9 wt should make casting larger flies than what you've been using with the 6 wt much easier to accomplish. ;)
 

karstopo

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Make sure you have the fly line on correctly and not reversed. I’m sure you do have it on right, but let’s say for example’s sake you didn’t. Trying to cast the tail end of the running line wouldn’t load the rod well at all.

The predator is a very fast graphite rod designed for big flies. It probably needs a decent amount of the fly line head out beyond the tip to load at all. I’d put on a smaller lighter weight fly on a normal leader and then put another 15-20 feet of fly line past the rod tip. Then pick up the line with a cast, forward or back depending on where you placed the line past the tip.

I don’t think you should put on a heavy fly until you get a feel for casting a much lighter, less wind resistant fly first.
 

bigjim5589

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Make sure you have the fly line on correctly and not reversed. I’m sure you do have it on right, but let’s say for example’s sake you didn’t. Trying to cast the tail end of the running line wouldn’t load the rod well at all.
I didn't even consider the possibility the fly line could be backwards! That would certainly create a casting problem!

Good call on that karstopo! :thumbsupu
 

dynaflow

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I didn't even consider the possibility the fly line could be backwards! That would certainly create a casting problem! Good call on that karstopo! :thumbsupu
Most definitely!..and I don't mean this comment to be trite,but I presume you are double hauling? It's just that I've witnessed first time anglers on Christmas Island who cannot double haul...this means a crying shame and a waste of money really.
 

drjay9051

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I didn't even consider the possibility the fly line could be backwards! That would certainly create a casting problem!

Good call on that karstopo! :thumbsupu
Line is on correctly. The welded loop is at the end to which i attached my leader.

I think you folks are correct as i do not have enough line out. I'll try again at sunrise.

BT: I am not double hauling this rod/line. Just trying to cast more than 20 feet.

Appreciate the help.

A bit off topic but I was watching a guy "fly fishing" with a 10 wt and he was throwing live shrimp. Ever hear of that before?
 

karstopo

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Line is on correctly. The welded loop is at the end to which i attached my leader.

I think you folks are correct as i do not have enough line out. I'll try again at sunrise.

BT: I am not double hauling this rod/line. Just trying to cast more than 20 feet.

Appreciate the help.

A bit off topic but I was watching a guy "fly fishing" with a 10 wt and he was throwing live shrimp. Ever hear of that before?
I believe people have used fly rods to throw out worms and other bait. I haven’t heard of them using shrimp, but it could work. A 9 weight would easily have enough built in power to toss out the average bait shrimp. Using live shrimp and fly rod might be ideal for certain fish and situations.

We have access to a beach house here where I live. A group of folks from the Middle East, I think Jordan, I’ve visited with them, have set up out in front several times fishing. There might be 3 or 4 that fish out of a gathering of 30 and most use unfamiliar looking long rods without line guides, some of them really long and thinner than normal surf rods, without reels and flip shrimp or other bait out on little hooks and get one whiting after another. They end up cooking that fish right then and there and have a great time. I haven’t gotten a good enough look at the rods to know how or what they are made of. No reason I see where a fly rod couldn’t be used in a similar way.

Many fly lines now have welded loops at both ends, but the leader end of the fly line with the WF head will be thicker than the running line by a long shot especially with a nine weight line so it would be difficult to confuse.

If you are used to a 5 weight and then try a nine weight, there is a big difference in how they feel on the cast. In my experience, it’s much harder to overpower the cast using the heavier rod. When I switch from using my 8/9 weight Short Stix, a very fast rod, to a five or six weight, I tend to put too much power too early in the cast. But if you are just trying to get a feel for the 9 weight rod and make a short cast, try putting out 15’ of line and get it moving with short arc casts putting some power into it. The heavy 9wt line has a lot of momentum once it gets moving.
 

clsmith131

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For me, I learned to cast with a 9wt, and to this day find 8's and 9's to be the easiest. I find I really have to dial back the pressure to get a good cast with a lighter weight (4 or 5wt). I would suggest putting about 25' of line out in the lawn, as others have said, you need enough line to load the rod initially. Using crisp strokes, lift the line into the air and work out your timing and pressure while keeping that line in the air, repeating back and fore casts. As you get comfortable let out a few more feet as the rods loads (easiest for me at the end of the back cast at first). I would think you should be able to carry at least 40' of line with that rod without too much trouble. Work the line out until you get ready to shoot, and give it a single haul. A little tip: cut the hook at the bend of a cheap fly you don't care about for this practice, you won't get it caught in the grass or the back of your hat etc... I don't know what you are targeting, but 40' - 60' seems to be the most common range for me fishing a 9wt. I generally am stripping flies, and need to cast a little farther than the target, to get the right action, speed and depth of retrieval.
 

bonefish41

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All good suggestions...mine is put the head out the tip or 30-35 feet with 8 feet of leader and the old fly hook cut off...on the grass/asphalt...grab line to the grip no more line ...cast wait on the backcast to load rod then forward...do you feel the rod loading or "cheat" the rod...find a used 10 wt line with a 30-35 foot head...now do you feel the rod loading...using your casting stroke. I "cheat" my Sage super fasts...TCX 10 and Method 11 using short headed line and upline one on the flats in wind. Because I am not a strong caster with a long stroke and my timing is suspect... when I cheat the rod it's easy to feel the load and I can make suitable casts 50-60 feet of flyline plus 8-10 feet of leader. You must feel the rod load on the back stroke and wait until all back before starting forward. Your good timing is the function of the rod being loaded.
My addiction is salt, sight flats been at it for 35 years. I am not a strong caster so I'll do whatever it takes to get the fly to the sighted fish and that usually means short headed WF as in Wulff Bermuda TT and Wulff Bermuda Shorts and/or upline one because I can feel the loaded rod and time my forward cast accordingly. Whilst is has been suggested that to short head or upline slows the fast rod...for me it slows the timing not the power of those rods to deliver a 60-70 foot cast including leader. For me the 60 -70 foot cast is all I need sight fishing...even if I could cast 90-100 feet I cannot see my target at those distances; and even if I see a tail and get to where it was when I started my cast and it's still "there" I cannot see the fish sub-surface to know how to "fish" the fly.


Got to feel the load and the best way to get started is upline on the grass
 

drjay9051

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All good suggestions...mine is put the head out the tip or 30-35 feet with 8 feet of leader and the old fly hook cut off...on the grass/asphalt...grab line to the grip no more line ...cast wait on the backcast to load rod then forward...do you feel the rod loading or "cheat" the rod...find a used 10 wt line with a 30-35 foot head...now do you feel the rod loading...using your casting stroke. I "cheat" my Sage super fasts...TCX 10 and Method 11 using short headed line and upline one on the flats in wind. Because I am not a strong caster with a long stroke and my timing is suspect... when I cheat the rod it's easy to feel the load and I can make suitable casts 50-60 feet of flyline plus 8-10 feet of leader. You must feel the rod load on the back stroke and wait until all back before starting forward. Your good timing is the function of the rod being loaded.
My addiction is salt, sight flats been at it for 35 years. I am not a strong caster so I'll do whatever it takes to get the fly to the sighted fish and that usually means short headed WF as in Wulff Bermuda TT and Wulff Bermuda Shorts and/or upline one because I can feel the loaded rod and time my forward cast accordingly. Whilst is has been suggested that to short head or upline slows the fast rod...for me it slows the timing not the power of those rods to deliver a 60-70 foot cast including leader. For me the 60 -70 foot cast is all I need sight fishing...even if I could cast 90-100 feet I cannot see my target at those distances; and even if I see a tail and get to where it was when I started my cast and it's still "there" I cannot see the fish sub-surface to know how to "fish" the fly.


Got to feel the load and the best way to get started is upline on the grass
Appreciate your info. I am using the following line:

Triangle Taper Saltwater Floating Fly Line - Royal Wulff

The line is thin on the spooled end then it thickens however at the very tip (where tippet attaches) it narrows down again. This narrow portion appears to be several feet in length.

What is happening even after slowing down my tempo is the line does shoot out but I believe due to the narrow tip where my leader/tippet is attached it simply falls down in a pile. In other words I think if I did not have the narrow tip i would cast much better as i do with my 6 wt which is loaded with Royal Wulff Ambush ( thick tip end with no narrow end , as i recall.

The Wulff site says i can trim the line but I am hesitant to trim a line which cost me $70 !!

Again all is well with the thicker head but it really does seem that the thinning out of the very end is causing that part of the line and the leader to just fall straight down. I have a nice straight line lying on the grass for say 40 feet and than a pile of several feet of line/leader.

I'm sure if i were a better caster i could have the line work as it is intended. As I understand it the idea of the thinned out terminal end is for a more delicate presentation but what I am presenting now would scare off a grizzly bear.

Maybe it is considered "cheating" but any harm in trimming off the thin terminal end and just forming a new loop.

I want to fish and not be frustrated with this 9 wt setup.

I do NOT want to go back to my spinning outfit.

Any thoughts??
 

gormaci

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i do not know the rod you use but it was mentioned it is fast/stiff rod.
Buy line 10 or 11 or 12 for it!!! Do not worry, YOU will not break this rod while casting.= with 12 weight even!! I guarantee. Feel the band and let the rod work for you.

Instead of spending money on fancy expensive lines, but cheap Eaby Chinese imitations and kill it on the grass!!
But the best spent money: one or two casting lessons with someone who knows casting (and teaching) goes very long way. Ask around. Ask in shop. Check instructors on IFF website...

Casting is fun!!!! Or at least should be.

And NO, you WILL NOT learn how to cast WELL by yourself- sorry (been there, done that :)
 

brokeoff

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Getting better with my fresh water 6 wt so i decided to buy a 9 wt for local salt water. it's a Redington Predator coupled to an Orvis Hydros. line is Wulff salt water WF.

I simply cannot get the line out more than say 10-15 ft. it seems to just fall in a pile at my feet.

Is the technique different for a heavier setup?

At first I thought heavier setup so i need a heavier fly but clearly this is not the case as a heavier 9 wt line should in theory take a fly further than a 6 wt line

In my case it seems backward.

Do I need to slow down my backcast as the rod is less "supple"?

I am lost here.

Cannot post video at this time.

Anybody ?
Start with this drill before you try a traditional overhead cast:

Circles Eights and Straights – Fly Casting Video Masterclass

You should be able to see and feel the line/rod moving. You can take 15 ft of line and create a circle like that and abruptly stop. It might turn into a cast after a few tries. If you are having trouble with 15 ft then use 10 ft. I like these drills because it teaches me how to stay connected to my rig. Remember, slack in the system is a killer.
 

bonefish41

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I would not cut the tip back. Their site indicates a 30 foot head though not as specific as their Bermuda Triangle Taper where they ID the grain weights at 30 feet. Get a used 10 weight line or borrow a 10 weight line/reel which specifically IDs the first 30 feet in grain weight.

Have someone look at your cast...appears to me from your description the last 2 or three feet of line and your leader is not rolling out/collapsing.

Also it not slowing your back down so as you might loose loading power e.g modern poll vaulter with composite pole...only variable(assuming his style stays constant) is the speed at which he runs down the approach...at quick/abrupt stop, load the pole, up and over...if he goes half speed the pole does not load energy as much as his full speed.
 

Rip Tide

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I ALWAYS overline my saltwater rods

10wt line on my 9wt rod
12wt line on my 10wt rod
My go-to 8wt rod gets a 9wt line with the tip cut back 6". (yes you can do that)
And my 10' 8wt that I use for surf fishing uses a 11wt line
That's right, an 11wt line on a 8wt rod.
Some people might consider over lineing to be a "beginners crutch", but this is my fortieth year of fly fishing the salt
 

Ard

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Appreciate your info. I am using the following line:

Triangle Taper Saltwater Floating Fly Line - Royal Wulff

The line is thin on the spooled end then it thickens however at the very tip (where tippet attaches) it narrows down again. This narrow portion appears to be several feet in length.

What is happening even after slowing down my tempo is the line does shoot out but I believe due to the narrow tip where my leader/tippet is attached it simply falls down in a pile. In other words I think if I did not have the narrow tip i would cast much better as i do with my 6 wt which is loaded with Royal Wulff Ambush ( thick tip end with no narrow end , as i recall.

The Wulff site says i can trim the line but I am hesitant to trim a line which cost me $70 !!

Again all is well with the thicker head but it really does seem that the thinning out of the very end is causing that part of the line and the leader to just fall straight down. I have a nice straight line lying on the grass for say 40 feet and than a pile of several feet of line/leader.

I'm sure if i were a better caster i could have the line work as it is intended. As I understand it the idea of the thinned out terminal end is for a more delicate presentation but what I am presenting now would scare off a grizzly bear.

Maybe it is considered "cheating" but any harm in trimming off the thin terminal end and just forming a new loop.

I want to fish and not be frustrated with this 9 wt setup.

I do NOT want to go back to my spinning outfit.

Any thoughts??
Hi,

You need some time because this reply ran a little on the long side but I've finally posted.

I seldom touch this type of thread because most of my experience is outdated and I'm not up to speed on all the current rods. Most all of our members are very good with the current line / rod match ups and have vastly more experience than I have. I do however still fish just not very often with a 9 foot 9 weight rod. I have one and use it for pike on still water so it isn't as if I'm about to speak on something of which I have no knowledge of at all.

I've read your posts and will say that given the descriptions you make of what is happening I can see two distinct possibilities, maybe three...……. For an attempted cast using the rod you have to simply end up with the line and leader landing just 20 foot or so away in a pile there are a few possible causes. One would be that the line on the rod is somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 grains too light in which case even a highly skilled caster may have great difficulty making a decent cast with the rod / line match up.

A second possible cause (and this may sound unpleasant) would be that the caster simply doesn't possess the foundational casting skills of technique such as proper timing, power application and so on to make the combined tackle work as it should. When you say that the very tip of the line and leader land in a pile that would indicate to me that you need a little more timing and zip on the final forward cast and a more solid stop of the rod with the tip fairly high.

Enough of the criticisms of something I haven't even seen, I have a second thought.

If you are making multiple false casts and I'm talking about a bunch of rod waving forward and back before you try to make the presentation that may be where your difficulty is rooted.

Unless you are very experienced with overhead casting with a single hand fly rod it is very difficult to put 30 or 40 feet of fly line in the air and make a continuous series of false casts. If you are doing this then the timing must remain perfect as does the power exerted in each move from forward to backward cast stroke. If anything changes then the line will form a tailing loop either as you pull back from the forward cast into the back cast or visa versa. This tailing loop thing will kill the energy in the cast and break the rhythm of your casting.

I am not a fan of multiple false casts being used to set up a delivery. The more false casts made the greater my risk of being out of sync just a tad and that will lead to a less than perfect delivery cast.

So with all that said, try this. Make your 40 foot cast with the line laying in a nice straight line on the lawn with only a couple feet and the leader landing unsuitably.

Now with that 40 feet laying there lower the rod tip until it is only a foot off the lawn. - - Reach up and grasp the line just below the stripping guide. - Now make a serious effort to rip that line up into a backcast by bringing that rod straight up over your casting arm shoulder while at the same instant pulling the line you grabbed by the stripper down until your hand is near or at your hip. - - Stop the rods backward stroke at about the 1 O clock position and allow the line to unfurl to your rear. As the line is traveling backward and nearly fully extended to your rear bring the hand still grasping the line up smoothly but quickly until it is near to the rods grip. - - You will be able to feel the line reach the terminal end of travel to the rear if you have used sufficient power to make the back cast. - - This is the moment for the hand still clutching the line to pull down while at the same instant your casting arm should begin a short fast / powerful forward stroke. The line hand should travel back toward the hip but not below your waist. - - You should be seeing a very powerful forward cast traveling straight to your front, when that line is just about fully unfurled release the line held in the free hand. (this is how you shoot line into a forward cast) With practice you can learn to 'shoot' line into the back cast as well and that is how you achieve really long casts...…...

A cast made like I just described having only a single back cast should fully unfurl, leader and all. It is not unusual for the very tip of your line to land with a bit of a hook to either side but that's something to address after you have the cast landing correctly.

If you use this technique (single back cast) and are still seeing a pileup then we are back to line weight or...………. you are not allowing the cast to fully unfurl to your rear prior to making the forward / delivery cast stroke.

If I am looking to make long casts on a lawn for the purpose of impressing someone with how far a particular rod can cast this is the technique I use. Once I have casts landing at 70 to 80 feet I will strip in line only until I have the rear taper back through the tip top. If the line has a 40 foot belly then I have 40 foot still lying on the lawn when I pull into the back cast. When done properly you will eventually see the line to backing connection out of the reel and you can do this using one, that's 1 single back cast with proper power and timing combined with a solid stop point.

I honestly hope that made sense because I took some thought and time trying to explain it.

Ard
 

drjay9051

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Hi,

You need some time because this reply ran a little on the long side but I've finally posted.

I seldom touch this type of thread because most of my experience is outdated and I'm not up to speed on all the current rods. Most all of our members are very good with the current line / rod match ups and have vastly more experience than I have. I do however still fish just not very often with a 9 foot 9 weight rod. I have one and use it for pike on still water so it isn't as if I'm about to speak on something of which I have no knowledge of at all.

I've read your posts and will say that given the descriptions you make of what is happening I can see two distinct possibilities, maybe three...……. For an attempted cast using the rod you have to simply end up with the line and leader landing just 20 foot or so away in a pile there are a few possible causes. One would be that the line on the rod is somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 grains too light in which case even a highly skilled caster may have great difficulty making a decent cast with the rod / line match up.

A second possible cause (and this may sound unpleasant) would be that the caster simply doesn't possess the foundational casting skills of technique such as proper timing, power application and so on to make the combined tackle work as it should. When you say that the very tip of the line and leader land in a pile that would indicate to me that you need a little more timing and zip on the final forward cast and a more solid stop of the rod with the tip fairly high.

Enough of the criticisms of something I haven't even seen, I have a second thought.

If you are making multiple false casts and I'm talking about a bunch of rod waving forward and back before you try to make the presentation that may be where your difficulty is rooted.

Unless you are very experienced with overhead casting with a single hand fly rod it is very difficult to put 30 or 40 feet of fly line in the air and make a continuous series of false casts. If you are doing this then the timing must remain perfect as does the power exerted in each move from forward to backward cast stroke. If anything changes then the line will form a tailing loop either as you pull back from the forward cast into the back cast or visa versa. This tailing loop thing will kill the energy in the cast and break the rhythm of your casting.

I am not a fan of multiple false casts being used to set up a delivery. The more false casts made the greater my risk of being out of sync just a tad and that will lead to a less than perfect delivery cast.

So with all that said, try this. Make your 40 foot cast with the line laying in a nice straight line on the lawn with only a couple feet and the leader landing unsuitably.

Now with that 40 feet laying there lower the rod tip until it is only a foot off the lawn. - - Reach up and grasp the line just below the stripping guide. - Now make a serious effort to rip that line up into a backcast by bringing that rod straight up over your casting arm shoulder while at the same instant pulling the line you grabbed by the stripper down until your hand is near or at your hip. - - Stop the rods backward stroke at about the 1 O clock position and allow the line to unfurl to your rear. As the line is traveling backward and nearly fully extended to your rear bring the hand still grasping the line up smoothly but quickly until it is near to the rods grip. - - You will be able to feel the line reach the terminal end of travel to the rear if you have used sufficient power to make the back cast. - - This is the moment for the hand still clutching the line to pull down while at the same instant your casting arm should begin a short fast / powerful forward stroke. The line hand should travel back toward the hip but not below your waist. - - You should be seeing a very powerful forward cast traveling straight to your front, when that line is just about fully unfurled release the line held in the free hand. (this is how you shoot line into a forward cast) With practice you can learn to 'shoot' line into the back cast as well and that is how you achieve really long casts...…...

A cast made like I just described having only a single back cast should fully unfurl, leader and all. It is not unusual for the very tip of your line to land with a bit of a hook to either side but that's something to address after you have the cast landing correctly.

If you use this technique (single back cast) and are still seeing a pileup then we are back to line weight or...………. you are not allowing the cast to fully unfurl to your rear prior to making the forward / delivery cast stroke.

If I am looking to make long casts on a lawn for the purpose of impressing someone with how far a particular rod can cast this is the technique I use. Once I have casts landing at 70 to 80 feet I will strip in line only until I have the rear taper back through the tip top. If the line has a 40 foot belly then I have 40 foot still lying on the lawn when I pull into the back cast. When done properly you will eventually see the line to backing connection out of the reel and you can do this using one, that's 1 single back cast with proper power and timing combined with a solid stop point.

I honestly hope that made sense because I took some thought and time trying to explain it.

Ard
Makes sense. I'll give it a try. BTW: I am making 5-6 false casts in an effort to get the line out there.
 

tcorfey

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As others have said it is hard to judge a casting problem if you can not see the cast. However, I have a couple of simple ideas based solely on your description.

If the line is traveling 20-30' and the leader is landing in a pile at that point then either you do not have enough line speed to carry the line or you are aiming the line in to the ground at 20-30'.

The line always follows the tip of the rod so using the tip you can aim your cast horizontally. A cast should always follow a straight line not an arc. If the line is going straight but landing in a pile in front of you then aim your forward cast to a spot 5' above the grass/water. By aiming higher, the cast should completely unroll in the air and there should be a tug you feel as the line completes rolling out and then settles to the ground. If you cannot unfurl the line in the air then the problem is line speed/timing.

This exercise breaks the cast in to two parts:
A great cast does not involve great strength. It does involve great timing and the ability to accelerate then stop at the proper time in the back cast then wait for the line to roll out before you accelerate and stop at the proper time in the forward cast. You can break this down by laying out 30' of line in front of you then perform the back cast and let the line tug at the end of the cast before it settles to the ground behind you. A properly timed backcast will fully layout the line behind you. The tug at the end of the cast that indicates the line unrolled and still has energy. If you do not feel the tug at the end of the back cast then your timing and acceleration are off. Once you can get the back cast to fully unroll in the air behind you and you can feel the tug, then incorporate the forward cast by timing the start of the forward cast to begin at the time of the tug from the back cast. Accelerate to a stop in the forward cast and let the line unfurl in front of you with the same tug you felt on the back cast. If you can complete that you will should be able to fine tune your cast from there. Remember it is not strength that dictates a normal cast it is good even acceleration and timing.
 

Ard

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Makes sense. I'll give it a try. BTW: I am making 5-6 false casts in an effort to get the line out there.
Oh I'd get to it before I became further frustrated ;)

Until you have the technique (which requires very precise timing) down pat I would limit the false casting. Generally a person can pull off a couple, maybe even three but eventually you are to early or too late on either the forward or back stroke and that results in a collapsing line / cast. The single stroke cast allows for the beginner to see and feel what a successful back cast followed by a good strong forward cast feels and looks like.

Once this simple exercise has been mastered one can add an additional 'false cast' into the mix to accommodate more distance. I believe that until you have established the basic move as I tried to describe for you to attempt waving the rod back and forth with any considerable length of line in the air may lead to further frustration.

Getting this single back cast thing and getting it well can be very useful in actual fishing circumstances. I used to fish both wet flies and nymphs that were attached to a hand tied double dropper leader. This allowed for the use of three different patterns and the technique was good for finding out what the fish might key on. Trying to false cast a trio of flies carefully tied onto a leader led to almost immediate knots and tangles that required the whole leader to be scrapped. I learned how to make a one back cast presentation at the needed distances in one day.

There are times when the 3 - 4 - or 5 false cast thing is acceptable. Dry fly fishing is one when you need to fling some water from the fly. Other wise it's wise to keep it to a minimum even when fishing dries. There are reasons for that too but would require much more writing to explain at this time.
 
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