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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Cody, WY

    Default Re: Analysis requested

    The best CD video and instructional booklet I've bought is Saltwater Flycasting -10 steps to distance and power by George V. Roberts Jr. Everything in it applies to fresh water too. I'm sure someone on this site recommended it to me a few years back. It's very step-by-step and complete with much stressing of rod loading and gradual acceleration then correct stops on both the backcast and forward. In my case, correctly applying it is another matter.

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  3. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    south florida

    Default Re: Analysis requested


    I hope you are still around. Your backcast stroke is much better than your forward stroke. There are two reasons for this. One is because, at the end of the forward stroke, there is slack in the line between your line hand and the stripping guide.

    So what happens is that your rod does nothing at the beginning of the backcast but take the slack out of the line - it does not begin loading against the line immediately, it just removes the slack.

    The effect is called "creep" which is a shortening of the casting arc (and stroke) and considered a casting flaw. So your effective casting stroke starts later in the rotation causing the rotational acceleration to begin later as well - ironically, when it should.

    The result is that your backcast is far better than your forward cast because your rotational acceleration is delayed later in the casting stroke on the backcast than it is on the forward cast.

    Notice that you have no tailing loops on the backcast and a good loop shape.

    On the forward cast, however, you accelerate too suddenly and stop too early. This is likely in response to the fact that your line hand is a long distance from the stripping guide and you are aware of the slack between it and the stripping guide and are powering into the cast to get the line to go out there forward at a slightly upward trajectory.

    Unlike the backcast where the "creep" actually serves a "good" purpose in shortening the effective casting arc, on the forward cast the excessive acceleration (not present in the backcast) serves to "shock' the rod, cause premature rod bending and ununbending resulting in tailing loops.

    Look closely at your backcast and you will see that the acceleration to the stop occurs much more smoothly than on the forward cast.

    I would suggest practicing with a real line, and also putting your line hand in your pocket and casting only with your rod hand - concentrating on the loop size and shape. It will eliminate the line hand variable. Your line hand is moving toward the stripping guide during the forward cast, which is adding slack into the forward casting stroke and robbing it of it's efficiency as well as aiding in the creation of the tailing loops.

    I would second the recommendation of jdwy on getting George Roberts book on casting. Though it is a "salt water" book, it is a very detailed and thorough method of straight forward casting, and the best I've read as well. Specialty presentation casts can best be learned after one is totally comfortable with straight forward casting.

    Good luck. Cheers, Jim

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  5. #23

    Default Re: Analysis requested

    Quote Originally Posted by iv_wjb View Post
    Thatís very helpful - thank you Silver.

    (I had looked for an instructional video several times and had not been able to find one... Much appreciated)

    I will try as per the suggestions and follow-up (hopefully, with an improved video) when time allows.

    Thanks, again!
    I agree with much of what has already been said; you're waiting a little too long to begin your forward cast, and allowing your line to drop, causing a tailing loop. Secondly, it looks as though you're trying to load the rod too quickly instead of building the load (flex) in a gradual acceleration and quick stop. Also, your arm does wander a little, and that causes your rod tip to deviate from a consistent line.

    Good news is this is pretty easy to fix, the trick is to practice. Work on the timing first, beginning your forward cast just before your back cast is fully extended. Then incorporate the arm positioning, remembering the 10 o'clock to 1 o'clock concept (forward motion stops at 10, backward motion stops at 1). When thinking about this, remember the clock is as you would see it looking to your right.

    As for loading the rod, remember the paint brush concept: Cast as if you have a wet paint brush and want to flick paint on a wall, building the momentum gradually and then a sudden flick at the end.

    Practice in your backyard and within two or three weeks you'll see a big improvement.

    One note, we all need practice, always.

    Good luck, and good fishing.

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  7. #24

    Default Re: Analysis requested

    I will not attempt to add to the excellent advice you've received so far, but I strongly suggest
    you look at the many excellent You Tube videos posted by Brian Fleishig of Mad River Outfitters.

    They take you from the basics to more advanced casting and specifically address many often unanswered questions
    that other information sources neglect.

    Best of luck! With "perfect practice" you will improve, though the trout will always have the last snub.

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  9. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Oakville, ON Canada

    Default Re: Analysis requested

    Thanks to all whoíve replied - much appreciated!! Iíll be working with a casting club over the Winter and hope to learn and employ all the excellent advice whilst I practice. Thanks!

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  11. Default Re: Analysis requested

    I suggest the best thing you can do is spend some time with a qualified instructor who can aid a much more rapid improvement. What a lot of people don't realise is how little power is necessary to cast the normal fishing distances and therefore apply too much power unnecessarily.

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