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  1. Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    Ard,
    Yes. Your camera will automatically expose for the entire scene, as it appears it did in this photo, so the moon becomes severely overexposed. Taking this shot a day or even two days, before or after the moon set or rise, which ever the case may be with this photo will add more ambient light to the river and trees because the sun will be closer to setting or rising.
    To get total detail in the moon requires that you expose for the moon itself, which is actually lit by the sun just as any daylight subject would be. In most cases, if you're shooting on the true full moon, your foreground will be severely under exposed. Even today's high end digital cameras still have an exposure latitude of 2-3 f stops, give or take, so if the overall scene has elements that include subjects that are over 2 stops difference in exposure, some of it will be either blown out or lost in shadow. With my moon shot I had the advantage of a totally white reflective scene because of the snow, which reduced the latitude in exposure.
    When all else fails due to too much of a spread in exposure (anything 2 stops or more) the best way to get detail in the moon and the foreground is to take 3, 4, or even 5 images bracketed in 1 stop increments and open them in Photomatix Pro HDR software. This program combines all the bracketed images into one image with all the best exposures from all your bracketed images.
    You can get a trial download here, while the purchase price is $100 for the licensed program.
    HDR (High Dynamic Range) software is a God send for images that have a wide exposure latitude.
    Download HDR photography software Photomatix

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  3. #42
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    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    Now you're talk'in! That is where I was aiming with this thread, a discourse where info would be available from those who know to those who want to know.

    Thanks

    Anywhere can be the land of great expectations, broken dreams, or paradise found, it's all up to you.

    Life On The Line - Alaska Fishing with Ard
    Ard's Forum blog, Alaska Outdoors

  4. Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    Happy to be of help.

  5. #44

    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    Quote Originally Posted by yatahey View Post
    Ard,
    Yes. Your camera will automatically expose for the entire scene, as it appears it did in this photo, so the moon becomes severely overexposed. Taking this shot a day or even two days, before or after the moon set or rise, which ever the case may be with this photo will add more ambient light to the river and trees because the sun will be closer to setting or rising.
    To get total detail in the moon requires that you expose for the moon itself, which is actually lit by the sun just as any daylight subject would be. In most cases, if you're shooting on the true full moon, your foreground will be severely under exposed. Even today's high end digital cameras still have an exposure latitude of 2-3 f stops, give or take, so if the overall scene has elements that include subjects that are over 2 stops difference in exposure, some of it will be either blown out or lost in shadow. With my moon shot I had the advantage of a totally white reflective scene because of the snow, which reduced the latitude in exposure.
    When all else fails due to too much of a spread in exposure (anything 2 stops or more) the best way to get detail in the moon and the foreground is to take 3, 4, or even 5 images bracketed in 1 stop increments and open them in Photomatix Pro HDR software. This program combines all the bracketed images into one image with all the best exposures from all your bracketed images.
    You can get a trial download here, while the purchase price is $100 for the licensed program.
    HDR (High Dynamic Range) software is a God send for images that have a wide exposure latitude.
    Download HDR photography software Photomatix

    To add to this, and try to help with achieving proper exposure,
    most modern DSLR's will have multiple (usually 3) different metering modes. The first is usually called Matrix metering. This is usually the default setting and it uses data gathered from metering points throughout the entire viewfinder (think corner to corner).
    The second is center weighted, it still uses multiple points but they are focused towards the center of your finder.
    The third and final is called Spot metering. This is the smallest, using only one or two points, dead center in your screen. (Usually where your center focus point is)

    For someone new to photography, matrix metering is a wonderful thing. It does a pretty darn good job in even lighting, and can even surprise you for more challenging scenes, but it is always the camera brain that's deciding what the best choice for you will be.
    As you start to spend more time making images, you'll find yourself less satisfied with the decisions the camera is making and will want more control in your hands.
    This is where the spot metering mode really shines. It allows you to take more accurate readings, by moving the center spot meter point you can see what the reading for the brights as well as the dark's and decide what element of the scene you want properly exposed. In the long run this will put more control in your hands, control and understanding, coupled with experience, will lead to better photographs.


    Next lesson will be about how the histogram is the most powerful image evaluation tool for exposure in your arsenal.

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  7. #45

    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    ahh the histogram.. Ill leave it at that. my xti doesnt have one but its uses are very important to find the right combination of light and dark.

    note about shooting the moon, if your just trying to get a good zoomed in moon shot you will have to shoot with day time settings otherwise it will be a white ball. Ill see if I can find one of mine. good job putting this thread to use

  8. #46
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    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    I use the spot metering and try to split the difference by shooting in manual mode. Taking the highest value vs. the lowest and then manually bracketing from low toward high sometimes gets me a good shot.

    I am going out the door now for some trout hunting and will take some river landscapes while I'm out. Because I have not acquired the Sigma lens yet I am shooting with the stock Nikon 18 - 55 that came with the camera. On Tuesday I had the 18 - 55 on when I should have had the Tamron 28 - 300 on because there was a rare occurrence. Four moose crossed the river about 100 yards below me, a cow, two calves, and a Bull! Rare, to say the least! There is also a sow bear and her cub working the same area that I am but she hears the motor on my boat and all I find are the tracks, maybe today...........

    Anywhere can be the land of great expectations, broken dreams, or paradise found, it's all up to you.

    Life On The Line - Alaska Fishing with Ard
    Ard's Forum blog, Alaska Outdoors

  9. #47

    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    Quote Originally Posted by Hardyreels View Post
    I use the spot metering and try to split the difference by shooting in manual mode. Taking the highest value vs. the lowest and then manually bracketing from low toward high sometimes gets me a good shot.

    I am going out the door now for some trout hunting and will take some river landscapes while I'm out. Because I have not acquired the Sigma lens yet I am shooting with the stock Nikon 18 - 55 that came with the camera. On Tuesday I had the 18 - 55 on when I should have had the Tamron 28 - 300 on because there was a rare occurrence. Four moose crossed the river about 100 yards below me, a cow, two calves, and a Bull! Rare, to say the least! There is also a sow bear and her cub working the same area that I am but she hears the motor on my boat and all I find are the tracks, maybe today...........
    how was it?

  10. #48
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    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    Sorry to be late to the party here. Great thread Ard! I look forward to hangin' around and learning something. For background, I shoot an old Nikon D70 around the house and carry an Olympus Stylus Tough 8000 on the stream.

    Lightroom is a godsend.

    Mike

  11. #49
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    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    Hey, I'm just happy to see you posting again Mike. Sooner or later I need to get a software program for working on what I take pictures of. At this point and for the years since the D80 was introduced I have only the Picture Project program that Nikon supplied.

    Anywhere can be the land of great expectations, broken dreams, or paradise found, it's all up to you.

    Life On The Line - Alaska Fishing with Ard
    Ard's Forum blog, Alaska Outdoors

  12. #50
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    Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

    One of my favorite photo editing tricks is still sucking the color out of the less important elements and keeping them there for the good bits. Granted, blackberry curves don't do much justice to colors in general, which is unfortunate but when it's all you've got with you, that's what you use

    The process is very simple in a program like Photoshop. While I typically use a tablet because its quicker, its easy to use a mouse here as well, even a laptop trackpad. You select the outline of the elements you want with whats called a magnetic lasso. You then create a layer out of the element you select. Fingers are notoriously hard to select in this way. They certainly take some time if you're not rushing the job as I was. You can do this with as many parts of the photo you would like, and all the layers of elements you want to remain their color you then group. The rest of the photo you then select and use the color removal option. In Photoshop Elements, this option is "Remove Color/Hue". And above is the end result.
    - A.J.

    Working out a way to convince my university to allow me to hold my TA office hours on the nearby creek...

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