Well, howdy, Tim! There are no secrets on the Madison. I might as well do a brain dump. Getting more into steelhead now, so 'I'll share' as they say.
I have a cabin between Ennis and Varney. I used to hit the salmonfly hatch for vacation - that's about the time I met Tim, I think - but now with the kids off the payroll I go whenever I want. I actually took advantage of a fire sale last year, as I'm on the MFRC mailing list, and took a discount fly fishing school there in April. I mainly wade now, though I usually have my boat along. I usually have to row and only fish a little, and after being out there 25 years or so figured a little schooling wouldn't hurt.
Fishing was tough; it often is, regardless of season. I've known the guys running the shop for long enough that they don't feel they have to sugar coat or pump it up to me, and that's their take. It is a pressured fishery.
That said, it's a great fishery, just not an easy one. I would not be overly concerned about runoff in early May, but it's been a big snow year, obviously, so monitor it.
I like Trout Stalkers and for several years now the same folks own/run the Madison River Fishing Co., as well. Nick is the manager, friendly, hooked up , and has a great crew. Stalker's the hipper locals hangout, right by the Gravel Bar, which is the best after river dining option, hands down. MFRC is a great shop, often clogged with the more oriented tourists, but same great friendly service as Trout Stalkers. Orvis guys at the Tackle Shop are good too, but that is definitely a tourist destination. Wherever you go, get your license online to save the lineup of your whole party tagging up at once in the shops. Trout Stalker's is slower, so might be a good bet if town is busy and you are in a hurry, just need some tippet or whatever.
The Pharmacy/Yesterday's Cafe and Soda Fountain has real good food, but is slammed in the morning and gets tourist dumps from the Yellowstone buses. Good if you aren't in a hurry, or of course, off season it's not bad. Breakfast / lunch only, I think the food closes at 2, soda fountain open longer. Huckleberry shakes.
The PicAnic Basket makes great breakfast burritos. You can order those ahead the night before and ace out the line, same with their lunches. Nacho Momma's is excellent economical Mexican.
Avoid the Ennis Cafe and Sportsman's at all costs. Ennis Cafe has always been bad, to the point of being written up on inspection, and Sportman's is on a steady downward spiral in terms of property upkeep and food/service. Troutstalkers has cabins behind, the Riverside has been there forever and seems well sorted, and my buddies often stay at Fan Mountain.
Once I get my place built on the E Gallatin in Bozeman, that will be on the rental market, as will the cabin S of Ennis.
Re: jerky, meat to grill, etc.; the new guy, Chris, who bought out Restvedt's Meats, and renamed it Deemo's, is kind of a jerk. Messed up our elk job, forgot what he did and so mistakenly wanted to charge too much, etc. You can also get box lunches quick at Madison Foods or the Town Pump has some stuff too, I suppose. Madison foods and Deemo's will save rotisserie chicken from last night for you in the walk in if you call ahead, for a boat lunch.
The McCallister Inn has rooms now, and has earned a reputation for outstanding food and service, locally grown food and art for sale. It's at the turn into the Bear Trap Canyon, some of the best, most consistent fishing anywhere. The Norris Hot Springs, Water of the Gods, also grows their own food and is a great place for a soak and meal. There are a couple other newer, smaller food shops I haven't frequented yet.
The parts store/repair shop, D&D Auto, on the curve will charge your 12v over night, free. They packed my drift boat trailer bearings about 10 years ago, over night, for 10 bucks. They have a body shop now too.
There are some new walk in areas open to the public by Ruby Creek. Walking in anywhere off the gravel road between Ruby and McAttee gives you that W bank so hard to fish into the sunset - when the Ro hatch comes thru - from a boat, and it's an easy level hike from the road that eliminates all but the locals. Same as private water, fellas, go get 'em.
All the ramps have excellent shore fishing near by, the ones with no campgrounds, like Storey Ditch, or Windy Point, see fewer anglers. Like mountain hunting, the harder it is to get to, the less pressure the critter will have seen.
I regularly float the Canyon with a retired guide buddy. We could not do it legally until he gave up his license, as there is only one licensed outfitter, out of Bozeman, permitted for the whitewater stretch. Easy google...Maybe search 'Bear trap Canyon guide' or something, I forget their name.. I would highly recommend hiring that ride. Incredible fishing, big thrills, and outstanding scenery.
The whole Canyon fishes great. You can see some pressure from folks by the dam. That stretch holds big, active fish. Some folks haul them out to eat, so it most be legal. If you cross the footbridge to fish the far side, river left, be aware that it is thick with poison Ivy - anecdotally, the only patch in MT. Plenty of big rocks to hop, just keep your eyes open.
In spring and fall, the Lower Madison, after it exits the Canyon, is money. Fish the weed beds and edges. Less traffic and the water is warmer. A go-to strategy if the Upper is blown. There is a lot of river down there, much easier wading. The old guide's 'day off' choice. Excellent hike to wade options, either direction, but think about upstream into the Canyon mouth sometime...lots of snakes and probably some cougar potential, I've seen one broad daylight from the blacktop. You can strap yourself there, it's MT.
Also, there are plenty of mountain lakes, I have approximately 11 within about a half hour of bad road of my shack, but I'm not talking any further about them. I keep the shottie in the rig and wear my bear system anywhere in the Gravelly Range, lots of grizzly activity. Keep a clean situation and head on a swivel everywhere up top.
Over the pass W to Virginia City is the Ruby, and Alder Gulch. There's fish there too.
Way up S towards the park is the Grizzly Bar. Good food, excellent service, a lot of Californian MT landowners dressed correctly. Further on, Kelly's Slide Inn, always a great stop, and I love to hear him wax poetic and profane on any topic. RV parking and cabins. Some other food around there I haven't checked out. Always top off your tank in Ennis, no gas south probably til past Hebgen. Anywhere a half hour walk from 3 Dollar or Raynold's parking will put you on some good pocket water.
Wading is tough. Don't get over your knees and have a staff. You can do it, though, and be as or more productive as in a boat if you can fish.
Jeffer's to the lake, and town park river right bank, have good fishing. From town bridge to the lake is float to fish, as is everything upstream (S) of Lyons. Valley Garden has some good fishing and you can cover a lot of ground wading the shoals around the mid river islands. Walk as far from the last campsite as you can, it does see anglers.
W of Varney Bridge there is now walk in access to that spring creek. It's a marsh slog getting to it, and the Varney cutoff road to 287 is going to be closed again, I hear. Maybe not til fall - I just made a note of it for elk season., More re-hab, I think this time on the spring creek bridge??? Have fun, spend money, smile at folks!
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