An Old Lamson LP 3.5 & sp. spool.

[Lewis Chessman]

I think I got a bit lucky on eBayUK the other night when I saw a well-used Lamson LP 3.5 crop up 'Buy It Now' at a reasonable price.
In fact, considering the sp. sp and the lines & backing which accompany it I'm comfortable with the cost, about $95 in your money.







I have a couple more pics I'd like to attach but I've reached my 2 Mb limit. I'll try again later.

It has the odd scuff of gravel rash and a wee ding to one spool lip (which does not touch the cage when turning, thankfully). There is a little play in the spool when mounted but not enough to concern me. The lines are a "WF8 Rio Mainstream Saltwater (well used) and a Scientific Anglers Mastery WF9 sink tip 4 (used)" acc. the seller but, having cleaned them there's life in both lines yet.

Curiously, the reel was listed as a ''Lamson LP 3.5 Fly Reel Bonefish" - which it isn't. The seller may have caught bonefish on it but this reel has a caliper drag not a draw bar - it's an 'LP' not a 'Saltwater Series' which included a 'Bonefish'. Both have a 3 3/4" diameter and can be used in the salt but the LP is a full 2 oz lighter.
On a previous Lamson thread 'montanafos' kindly posted a catalogue showing the reels and some specs which gives backing lengths for #7/8/9 lines. Even the #9 allows for over 200 m of backing, more than I'll ever need I think, so I may team this up with a #10 for my Biscayne 'Billy Barroo' if the balance suits. East Coast meets West Coast - almost!

Something I'd like to check is the caliper drag's pad. I've read a few posts saying that the glue often weakens with age and the pad comes away. Mine looks ok and the drag works smoothly but I wondered, does anyone with experience of this series know how straight forward servicing this reel is? I'm happy to do it myself as I don't know of a Bill Archuleta equivalent in the UK.

There we are. If anyone (flytie09, perhaps? ) has anything to add about the LPs I'm all ears.
Cheers!

 

[original cormorant]

I have two 3.5's (+2 spare spools) which I still use for UK saltwater. your description of dings and rash certainly match mine!

I retired these from bonefishing because they're not large arbor. I did replace the clutch on one of them about 15 years ago. They were certainly sold as bonefish reels (by Worldwide Sportsman). I didn't know that Lamson produced a salt water series with a drawbar drag. My copy of Dick Brown lists the LP 3.5 with caliper drag as a bonefish reel. I suspect that a lamson saltwater series bonefish reel with a drawbar drag is probably quite rare, whereas the 3.5 was possibly the most popular bonefish reel until large arbors were introduced.

Dismantling the reeel to replace the clutch was no problem, tho I can't remember any details. I've had no issues with failed glue.

 

[okaloosa]

I owned that reel in the 1990's and sold it when I bought my Tibors...I used it solely in the salt. the caliper drag design at firstconcerned me a bit in the sense that it could potentially slip if wet. However,
I caught 25 lb jack crevalles and 20 lb reds on that reel and had no failures or issues. I think for $95 US it is a very good deal.... however, if I was going on a once in a lifetime trip I would bring a back up reel, but that goes w/o saying for any reel.

 

[Lewis Chessman]

Hello, original cormorant, I was just thinking today that I hadn't seen you posting recently. Maybe it's just chance and I've been looking elsewhere? Anyway, hope you're doing fine.
I've added a couple more pics to the op and had intended adding a link to the Lamson Saltwater Reels thread but didn't so here it is now. This is p.2 where montanafos has posted a catalogue - it shows some of the differences between the LP and SW series.

Thanks okaloosa, that's reassuring. I'll be using it against Atlantic salmon in freshwater and I reckon it'll be fine. I rather like it's 'zzzzzzzzzzzzz' on the way out. I'm not one for noisy, screaming reels, this is more of a snoozer.
It'll have to vie for affection with a couple of STH reels and my Tiogas but I think the latter may have already slipped a notch down the league table in favour of this.

 

[Lewis Chessman]

A big thanks to flytie09 who kindly sent me a file of the LP's manual.
Not only does it describe the method required to change from R-H to L-H wind but it clearly says 'no oil to the drag mech'.
Mine is, well, was saturated. I've just stripped it right back, degreased and rebuilt, something I wouldn't have known to do, or how to do, without his help.

Having done so, there's only about 4 clicks from minimum drag to train-stopper, which may be why the previous owner bathed it in oil?
I'll play around more tomorrow as I suspect that loosening the single nut on the 'drag triangle' may offer more scope.

I had erroneously thought that the drag's pads (one on top, two hidden beneath the toothed drag disc) were cork but that may only be the SW Series. The LP's pads are Rulon, thankfully.
I say that because, unlike cork (which will, I think, require a lubricant), the Rulon, a plastic, simply wiped clean - and there can be no old glue issues with the LP as the pads have a pin or stub on the underside which secures them in place, no glue at all.
Also, the two hidden pads are the same as the pad on top so, if that gets worn one could try swapping it with one from under the drag disc.

I'd be interested to know how much spool wobble other owners have. Mine is not terrible but it is noticeable and kind of knocks a bit on the retrieve.

I'm also curious how far from the minimum drag setting others can turn the knob before the reel seizes. Mine starts at c. 8 o' Clock (i.e. below the '-') and, currently, locks up at about 11:30 to 12.
Given that it could feasibly turn to c.4 o' Clock (beyond the '+') I reckon I need to loosen that nut a little.

 

[okaloosa]

I did not have any wobble with mine...but I did once get some oil on the drag and it really does make it slip ....however, when wiped clean it is amazing how smooth the drag was for such a small surface area...I dont remember how far I could turn the knob.

 

[Lewis Chessman]

Thank you for that. I think I'll take a look at the spool fixings tomorrow to see if anything can be tightened up.
I do wonder whether the slippage issue was the root cause of the previous owner's sale!

 

[flytie09]

Lewis,

I have the Spey version which has the same drag mechanism as the one you purchased. I've not even had the opportunity to use it yet...so I can't speak to it from a performance perspective.

There is an ever so slight amount of spool end play.....I can say it turns very smooth in both direction. Not a big deal on the end play as I see it. Drag adjustment from min-to-max is from 3/4 of a turn of the drag knob. It is a good amount at maximum setting. I personally set it just enough to prevent backlash anyways and right or wrong I use my hands to handle the rest if needed.

You might have to disassemble the drag mechanism to get to the riding surface of the drag pad so you can wipe it clean of any residual lubricant. You're going to need a tiny screwdriver and socket from the looks of it.

Good luck.

 

[Lewis Chessman]

I stripped it right down yesterday, flytie09 - and got it all back together correctly, too! Phew! The entire drag mech. was well oiled but is now clean and the Rulon pads show little sign of wear, thankfully. In my mind's eye I can see how loosening the sole nut (on the 'drag triangle') will give me more scope as there's a wee spring under the housing which will adapt accordingly with upward pressure.
This is one reel I'll certainly crank the drag down on in close season to take the pressure off that little spring, lest it gets compressed over the dark days.

Re: the spool wobble, there's enough on mine to cause a knocking sound as I reeled on the backing after altering the wind directing. I have the other spool to do too, and can compare them, then look to remedy somehow.
To be fair, the seller did mention 'wear commensurate to age and use' and the dint on one spool rim so I've no grounds for complaint! I'll have a further look this afternoon.

 

[original cormorant]

A big thanks to flytie09 who kindly sent me a file of the LP's manual.
Not only does it describe the method required to change from R-H to L-H wind but it clearly says 'no oil to the drag mech'.
Mine is, well, was saturated. I've just stripped it right back, degreased and rebuilt, something I wouldn't have known to do, or how to do, without his help.

Having done so, there's only about 4 clicks from minimum drag to train-stopper, which may be why the previous owner bathed it in oil?
I'll play around more tomorrow as I suspect that loosening the single nut on the 'drag triangle' may offer more scope.

I had erroneously thought that the drag's pads (one on top, two hidden beneath the toothed drag disc) were cork but that may only be the SW Series. The LP's pads are Rulon, thankfully.
I say that because, unlike cork (which will, I think, require a lubricant), the Rulon, a plastic, simply wiped clean - and there can be no old glue issues with the LP as the pads have a pin or stub on the underside which secures them in place, no glue at all.
Also, the two hidden pads are the same as the pad on top so, if that gets worn one could try swapping it with one from under the drag disc.

I'd be interested to know how much spool wobble other owners have. Mine is not terrible but it is noticeable and kind of knocks a bit on the retrieve.

I'm also curious how far from the minimum drag setting others can turn the knob before the reel seizes. Mine starts at c. 8 o' Clock (i.e. below the '-') and, currently, locks up at about 11:30 to 12.
Given that it could feasibly turn to c.4 o' Clock (beyond the '+') I reckon I need to loosen that nut a little.

On both of mine the drag is similar to one another (except that one has + and - painted on the reel back and the other doesn't). It is 15 clicks from 8 to 4 o'clock, but even at 4 the drag is nowhere near lock down. I just did a crude measurement of the maximum drag - its more than the weight of one 500ml can of beer and less than the weight of two 330ml cans. so probably about 600 grams taking into account the tare weight of the cans.

My brake pads aren't cork. I do have a little wobble but not enough to have bothered me. I've lost the lamson medalion on both reels, if you have yours you may like to check it and re-attach it with really stong adhesive if necessary .

 

[Lewis Chessman]

Thank you, o c, I'll check the badge tomorrow.

I had a play with mine this afternoon and the good news is that by adjusting the nut on the triangular plate one can increase/decrease the scope of the drag to personal preference.
Mine now spans the 8-4 clock face with 8 preventing over-run, 4 pretty well giving lock down.

I took the spool latch apart to clean (be VERY careful if you do, there's a tiny wire spring which 'sprung'! Luckily I found it but ..... urrrrrgggghhhhh!
Can't see any way to reduce the wobble which feels like it starts/reaches down to the clutch (the bi-metal disc with the three pins and two slots). No biggy, happy bunny here now the drag is set sweetly.
Oh, and I dressed the spindle with a little reel grease. It now spins several times on pick up with a wee tap on the spool rim, good for quick recovery of spare line at the start of the fight.

 

[original cormorant]

I would have guessed that the wobble is inherent in the design tolerances in the spool latch (thanks for the terminology to describe it). I say that because there is no sign of wear on the spindle and the play is the same regardless of which of 4 spools I pair up with either of the two reels.

I've never taken the spool latch apart but I have lost a tiny pin dismantling a different reel (fortunately Guide Flyfishing, the distributor was able to provide a compatible replacement), so I know the uurrrrgh feeling.

 

[Lewis Chessman]

I think you are right, original cormorant, that the wobble is inherent in the design. It's no different from my Tioga reels (not T. Tetons but the cheaper, old models) which I believe cost less than the Lamsons and were contemporary. My suspicion is that the wobble originates from the base of the spindle where the two prongs of the spool marry with the clutch (in the two holes in the brass bit), either from that join or between the clutch itself and the spindle. That's solely based on how it feels in the hand, though.

To support your thoughts on the design tolerances, there is so little sign of wear on mine that I don't think over-use is an issue. No corrosion, no striations from grit, etc., and when I removed the toothed drag plate to clean there was only grease and oil residue, no particles at all. There's only a little gravel rash to show it has seen action, in fact.
I reckon I'm just becoming a tad fastidious in my old age.

I don't recommend removing the latch plate on an LP unless one has a problem, just in case that tiny spring flies away. There's nothing in there which needs attention and one drop of oil once in a blue moon should keep things healthy. I was just being overly curious. I wouldn't have a chance in hell of sourcing a replacement latch spring in the UK, I'm sure! I was so lucky, it landed on a piece of plain white paper on the window sill, not on the workshop floor. :sweatingb

 

[original cormorant]

I think the "wobble fulcrum" is at the other end of the spindle i.e. in the latch on the spool rather than at the reel back-plate end.

 

[Lewis Chessman]

I think the "wobble fulcrum" is at the other end of the spindle i.e. in the latch on the spool rather than at the reel back-plate end.

Hmmm, I'll play around a bit more! Sure, the latch is the least sophisticated end in terms of engineering. You may well be right.